Capital: Delhi | Language: Hindi, English, others | Currency: Rupee | Religion: Hindu, Islam, Christian, Sikhism, Buddhist, Jainism | Population: 1.4 billion

India often inspires equal measures of love and hate in those who visit it. True, it can be a daunting, exhausting place. But it’s also amazing, incomprehensible and mesmerising at the same time.

The trail got steadily steeper

Onwards and upwards: from India to Nepal

We got a taste of the mountains ahead on the bus ride to Syrabru Besi. The road was worse than the trek itself could possibly be. It involved teetering on hairpin bends of the sort that made me close my eyes, although I noticed that other passengers seemed to relish the views of certain death, should anything go wrong. Then, we set off on the trail and spent seven days hiking the Langtang valley.

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India: scratching the surface

I’ve been to India many times before, but I just keep going back. India never ceases to amaze me. In part because no matter how much time I spend there, it still feels like I’m just scratching the surface. Here are a few of the things that – for us anyway – make a trip to India….such a trip.

Read More »
At Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi, India

Life and death in Varanasi

We had a night train to catch to Varanasi. ‘The City of Learning and Burning’, on the banks of the Ganges: Varanasi is one of the holiest places in all of India.

Read More »

Bhutan: in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon

Bhutan: a tiny Himalayan kingdom with a pricey entrance fee, and a border crossing in the middle of a city that straddles two countries. Standing on our hotel balcony in India, we looked across the street and into the next country. Surrounded by mountains, Bhutan really is a world of its own.

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Trains, buses, and a boat: to Bangladesh and back again

By train, or bus, or boat, or rickshaw – it’s rare that we’ve not been able to get somewhere we want to go. Except the time India wouldn’t let us in in the first place. However, once we’re inside the country we’ll find a ride one way or another. And keep in mind, India is huge. Bangladesh, on the other hand, is tiny. But it doesn’t always feel so tiny, when you’re traveling by public transport.

Read More »
The trail got steadily steeper

Onwards and upwards: from India to Nepal

We got a taste of the mountains ahead on the bus ride to Syrabru Besi. The road was worse than the trek itself could possibly be. It involved teetering on hairpin bends of the sort that made me close my eyes, although I noticed that other passengers seemed to relish the views of certain death, should anything go wrong. Then, we set off on the trail and spent seven days hiking the Langtang valley.

Read More »

India: scratching the surface

I’ve been to India many times before, but I just keep going back. India never ceases to amaze me. In part because no matter how much time I spend there, it still feels like I’m just scratching the surface. Here are a few of the things that – for us anyway – make a trip to India….such a trip.

Read More »
At Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi, India

Life and death in Varanasi

We had a night train to catch to Varanasi. ‘The City of Learning and Burning’, on the banks of the Ganges: Varanasi is one of the holiest places in all of India.

Read More »

Bhutan: in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon

Bhutan: a tiny Himalayan kingdom with a pricey entrance fee, and a border crossing in the middle of a city that straddles two countries. Standing on our hotel balcony in India, we looked across the street and into the next country. Surrounded by mountains, Bhutan really is a world of its own.

Read More »

Trains, buses, and a boat: to Bangladesh and back again

By train, or bus, or boat, or rickshaw – it’s rare that we’ve not been able to get somewhere we want to go. Except the time India wouldn’t let us in in the first place. However, once we’re inside the country we’ll find a ride one way or another. And keep in mind, India is huge. Bangladesh, on the other hand, is tiny. But it doesn’t always feel so tiny, when you’re traveling by public transport.

Read More »