Capital: Delhi | Language: Hindi, English, others | Currency: Rupee | Religion: Hindu, Islam, Christian, Sikhism, Buddhist, Jainism | Population: 1.4 billion

India often inspires equal measures of love and hate in those who visit it. True, it can be a daunting, exhausting place. But it’s also amazing, incomprehensible and mesmerising at the same time.

At Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi, India

Life and death in Varanasi

We had a night train to catch to Varanasi. ‘The City of Learning and Burning’, on the banks of the Ganges: Varanasi is one of the holiest places in all of India.

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Bhutan: in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon

Bhutan: a tiny Himalayan kingdom with a pricey entrance fee, and a border crossing in the middle of a city that straddles two countries. Standing on our hotel balcony in India, we looked across the street and into the next country. Surrounded by mountains, Bhutan really is a world of its own.

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Trains, buses, and a boat: to Bangladesh and back again

By train, or bus, or boat, or rickshaw – it’s rare that we’ve not been able to get somewhere we want to go. Except the time India wouldn’t let us in in the first place. However, once we’re inside the country we’ll find a ride one way or another. And keep in mind, India is huge. Bangladesh, on the other hand, is tiny. But it doesn’t always feel so tiny, when you’re traveling by public transport.

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A row of stupas overlooking the Indus Valley, at Shey Palace. Near Leh, Ladakh, India

Once Upon a Time in India

India never fails to surprise me – it’s good that way. This time, with the magical Himalayan former Kingdom of Ladakh. If you’re in India during the monsoon, head on up. There’s plenty to do, and little rain.

Read More »
At Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi, India

Life and death in Varanasi

We had a night train to catch to Varanasi. ‘The City of Learning and Burning’, on the banks of the Ganges: Varanasi is one of the holiest places in all of India.

Read More »

Bhutan: in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon

Bhutan: a tiny Himalayan kingdom with a pricey entrance fee, and a border crossing in the middle of a city that straddles two countries. Standing on our hotel balcony in India, we looked across the street and into the next country. Surrounded by mountains, Bhutan really is a world of its own.

Read More »

Trains, buses, and a boat: to Bangladesh and back again

By train, or bus, or boat, or rickshaw – it’s rare that we’ve not been able to get somewhere we want to go. Except the time India wouldn’t let us in in the first place. However, once we’re inside the country we’ll find a ride one way or another. And keep in mind, India is huge. Bangladesh, on the other hand, is tiny. But it doesn’t always feel so tiny, when you’re traveling by public transport.

Read More »
A row of stupas overlooking the Indus Valley, at Shey Palace. Near Leh, Ladakh, India

Once Upon a Time in India

India never fails to surprise me – it’s good that way. This time, with the magical Himalayan former Kingdom of Ladakh. If you’re in India during the monsoon, head on up. There’s plenty to do, and little rain.

Read More »