Capital: Delhi | Language: Hindi, English, others | Currency: Rupee | Religion: Hindu, Islam, Christian, Sikhism, Buddhist, Jainism | Population: 1.4 billion

India often inspires equal measures of love and hate in those who visit it. True, it can be a daunting, exhausting place. But it’s also amazing, incomprehensible and mesmerising at the same time.

Overlooking Turtuk and the Karakoram range, Turktuk, India. Line of Control, Kashmir
Stories

Noble Silence: A Three Day Meditation Retreat in Ladakh

What could be better than three days of total quiet? Here’s my take on what it’s like to attend a three-day silent meditation retreat in Ladakh, plus info on where to sign up, accommodation, costs and transportation.

A row of stupas overlooking the Indus Valley, at Shey Palace. Near Leh, Ladakh, India
Stories

Once Upon a Time in India

India never fails to surprise me – it’s good that way. This time, with the magical Himalayan former Kingdom of Ladakh. If you’re in India during the monsoon, head on up. There’s plenty to do, and little rain.

Crossing the Wagah border - lost in 3 metres of No Man's Land. Pakistan to India by road. Crossing the Wagah border on foot.
Stories

Goodbye Pakistan…Hello India

‘Orderly’ and ‘dull’: two adjectives that have probably never before been applied to India, and never will be again. But, we’d just come from Pakistan…

Painted wall at Ram Raja temple, Orccha, India
Stories

India: There’s Always the Next Time

A beach-hopping holiday in South Goa at Cola and Agonda. Then, back up north and on to the temples and palaces in Orchha, a magnificent historical town.

View of the Taj Mahal from a guesthouse rooftop in Agra, India
Stories

India: Depending How You Look at It

Getting train tickets in India is sometimes easier said than done. But, once your tickets are sorted, the Taj Mahal in Agra is an easy day trip from Delhi by train.

Shivpuri Beach, Swimming in the Ganges, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand
Stories

India – Until Next Time

A few days in and around Bikaner to see Junagarh Fort and even more weirdly interesting, Karni Mata – a temple devoted to sacred rats. Incredible India.

Lahore Old Walled City Wazir Khan mosque Pakistan
Stories

Lahore in a Long Weekend

An unusual destination with plenty of stuff to do. Maybe it’s just me, but popping into Pakistan seemed like a perfectly obvious side-trip from India.

Wagah border India Pakistan
Stories

India to Pakistan: Crossing the Wagah Border

India to Pakistan: the Wagah border closes every day with a dramatic ceremony. It’s the only border crossing I’ve ever done that involved a stroll through a stadium.

Golden Temple Amritsar India
Stories

Me, Myself, and India

More than a billion people call India home and it can feel pretty crowded. That’s one of the reasons why I think it’s a great place to travel alone.

A row of stupas overlooking the Indus Valley, at Shey Palace. Near Leh, Ladakh, India
Stories

Once Upon a Time in India

India never fails to surprise me – it’s good that way. This time, with the magical Himalayan former Kingdom of Ladakh. If you’re in India during the monsoon, head on up. There’s plenty to do, and little rain.

Read More »
Crossing the Wagah border - lost in 3 metres of No Man's Land. Pakistan to India by road. Crossing the Wagah border on foot.
Stories

Goodbye Pakistan…Hello India

‘Orderly’ and ‘dull’: two adjectives that have probably never before been applied to India, and never will be again. But, we’d just come from Pakistan…

Read More »
Shivpuri Beach, Swimming in the Ganges, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand
Stories

India – Until Next Time

A few days in and around Bikaner to see Junagarh Fort and even more weirdly interesting, Karni Mata – a temple devoted to sacred rats. Incredible India.

Read More »
Lahore Old Walled City Wazir Khan mosque Pakistan
Stories

Lahore in a Long Weekend

An unusual destination with plenty of stuff to do. Maybe it’s just me, but popping into Pakistan seemed like a perfectly obvious side-trip from India.

Read More »
Golden Temple Amritsar India
Stories

Me, Myself, and India

More than a billion people call India home and it can feel pretty crowded. That’s one of the reasons why I think it’s a great place to travel alone.

Read More »