On the blog...
Here on the blog you’ll find (at least some of) our stories from the road, plus itineraries and plenty of first-hand advice that we like to think is useful.
Obvious exceptions like Turkmenistan or Bhutan aside, we travel on our own, sorting out the details as we go. Which works most of the time. Story, guide, or trip-report-hybrid, I write about what really happens to us as a direct result of this kind of independent travel. What we do, the people we meet, and everything else that rolls up together to make a great trip (…or not. But mostly great).
Since we travel by road (or rail, or sea) most of the time, there’s a lot of exactly that here – getting around on local transport in one form or another. And for some of our best self-driving adventures, I’ve laid out our itineraries and how to plan a similar road trip for yourself.
This type of travel inevitably involves more than a few border-crossings. So you’ll find plenty of posts explaining the ins-and-outs of some of the more complicated borders we’ve come across.
If you’re irresistibly drawn to the endless adventures and challenges that come with overland travel, then have a look below. Happy travels:)
Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf
Karbala and Najaf: as you might imagine, visiting these Shia shrine cities is a bit of serious business. There is major pilgrim traffic in both, and a completely different atmosphere to Baghdad or Mosul. Both draw millions of visitors every year from all over the Muslim world, to pay their respects at the tombs of Ali, Hussain, and Abbas. Religious pilgrim or not, if you’re traveling in Iraq you will want to go to them both, too.
Daytripping to Babylon from Karbala
We took a daytrip from Karbala to the site of ancient Babylon. But wait, there’s more – Saddam Hussein had a palace handily located overlooking the ruins. It’s easy to get to Babylon by yourself on public transport, but getting into the palace is easier said than done. This post is about how to get to Babylon from Karbala, and explore Saddam Hussein’s palace while you’re at it (…if you’re lucky).
Daytripping to Samarra from Baghdad
In recent years it’s been hard for visitors to get to Samarra. You needed special permission and a guide, or at least a local friend to help you out, but this doesn’t seem to be the case anymore. This post is about daytripping to Samarra: how we arranged to go there from Baghdad, and then carried on to Karbala afterwards.
Iraq travel guide and itinerary
Anyone planning a trip to Iraq will have at least a few questions surrounding visas, money, and transportation – for starters. Not to mention the big ones: is it safe? Is it possible to travel independently? Really – what’s it like to travel in Iraq? We had an amazing trip and that’s why we’re sharing our experience here – along with our 14 day itinerary for independent travel in Iraq, plus tips and advice for how to DIY in this wonderful bit of the world.
How to cross the Safwan border from Iraq to Kuwait
Here’s what you need to know to travel by road from Iraq (Basra) to Kuwait (Kuwait City).
Riding the TAZARA train: cross-border from Zambia to Tanzania
This post is about our experience aboard the TAZARA train, traveling from Zambia (New Kapiri Mposhi) to Tanzania (Dar es Salaam). It’s a guide to whatever you need to know to take the same journey, and what awaits you along the way. And – if you’re in the neighbourhood, then you should definitely take this journey.
Saudi Arabia travel guide and itinerary
This post is a trip report. It’s the itinerary we made for the eighteen days we spent in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, plus a bit of other info about how we got there in the first place, our route, traveling around, and lessons learned along the way.
Algeria travel guide and itinerary
Everyone going to Algeria – ourselves included – seems to have more than a few questions surrounding visas, money, transport, and guides. To save you some of the same difficulties we’re reporting our experience here, along with our eleven day itinerary for independent travel in northern Algeria, and Ghardaia.
Extreme journeys: riding Mauritania’s iron ore train
I hauled myself up the ladder with a bit of extra momentum, and landed on a pile of scratchy black powder. Oyv climbed up too and we stood on top of the heap of iron ore in wagon six. The train rumbled to life underneath us and slowly pulled away. Gradually it picked up speed, and we chugged towards the coast. Sixteen hours overnight through the Sahara, all alone under the stars, on top of a train.