In better times, we traveled in one day from Mardin in Turkey, through to Duhok in Iraq (Kurdistan) in one day. Door to door it took roughly nine hours, and this is a report of how our trip went.

Before you go

Save the address for a hotel or two offline, in case anyone asks at the border in relation to your visa. Bring an e-SIM or just wait til Duhok to pick one up. We had an Airolo e-SIM.

We didn’t book a hotel (we didn’t book any the entire time we were there), but we’d found a few on Google maps to keep in mind.

Visas

You can get the Kurdistan e-visa in advance or pick up a visa on arrival at the Ibrahim Khalil crossing. That costs 70 USD per person, cash only. Make sure your money is just about pristine: no torn notes, no old series.

Lately people have been reporting that they arrived at the border with the printout of their Federal Iraq e-visa only, and that the separate visa for Kurdistan is no longer required (or at least, not always enforced). In those cases they’ve had the Federal Iraq e-visa stamped on entry to Kurdistan, and then got stamped again later on entering Federal Iraq, at the Mosul border. Apparently this doesn’t always work, especially not at the Kirkuk border crossing to Federal Iraq.

On this particular trip we weren’t going to Federal Iraq also, so we got the separate Kurdistan e-visa. Processing that at the border took around thirty minutes.

Money

You can change Turkish lira or USD in the duty-free area on the Turkish side at Habur, which is handy but rates are not the best. If you can change in Mardin or Cizre, do that instead. Once you’re in Duhok, you’ll find better rates again (and ATMs).

The route

Our route in one (long) day went like this: Mardin > Cizre > border crossing at Ibrahim Khalil > Duhok.

We also spent some time waiting around between buses. Check and plan your bus timings in advance on obilet.com and get an early start, if you want to make it through in a day.

Keep in mind the bus from Cizre will probably carry on all the way to Erbil, if you want to go straight there. I’d stop in Duhok though, if you aren’t pressed for time.

Mardin to Cizre

Buses run several times a day from Mardin’s Intercity bus terminal to Cizre Otobüs terminal, and takes about two and a half hours through some pretty rugged scenery.

Tickets run 300–400 TRY per person and we bought ours on obilet.com. You can get them at the station in person too.

Cizre to Duhok and crossing the border

In Cizre we picked up a direct international bus going to Duhok, from the same station. There are usually only one or two buses a day, so you should check times and probably book the day before you travel. Again, obilet.com is your friend.

Cizre to Duhok took around five and a half hours including the border crossing, and the tickets cost 700–1,000 TRY per person.

Crossing the border

On the Turkish side the bus stops at Habur Gate and you get off the bus and stamp out of Turkey at passport control there. Then you walk through the duty-free zone (we stopped in a shop there to change Turkish lira to Iraqi dinar), and then you reboard the same bus which drives across to the Iraqi side at Ibrahim Khalil.

You get off the bus again with all your stuff and send your luggage through the xray. Then you pick your queue according to the visa you’ve got (or are planning to get). We were buying the Kurdistan VOA. After sorting out the visa, we moved queues and got the passports stamped. Then, you get back on the same bus once again, and it will carry on to Duhok.

We got off the bus at Duhok International general terminal, which is huge and airport-like, was completely deserted at the time, and is about twelve km outside the city centre. There were not a lot of taxis, we weren’t spoiled for choice but we did get one into town, which took another twenty minutes or so. That should cost something like 10,000–15,000 IQD. Make sure you agree on the fare before you get in. We got ours to take us straight to the hotel we had in mind: Kristal Hotel, which was clean and comfortable and not expensive.

Then we had a celebratory chai in the lobby. And that’s about it! Welcome to Kurdistan.

Read more

We’ve also traveled in Federal Iraq, on another recent trip and you can find our guides to independent travel in Iraq here.

Or check out this story about traveling from Turkey and on to Kurdistan: Killing time in Turkish tombs: on the way to Iraqi Kurdistan.

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

The post How to cross the border from Turkey to Iraq (Kurdistan) appeared first on WhirledAway.

But since we were heading for Saudi Arabia next the bus wasn’t going to cut it. First, we thought about going to Sudan and taking the ferry from Port Sudan to Jeddah. This was before the current civil war. We’ve been to Sudan and would have to retrace our steps (although it would be fun to drop in on Magzoub). But that plus the fact that the security situation was already somewhat volatile, and that we couldn’t find any information about departure times from Port Sudan, all seemed like a bit much fuss so we scrapped that idea.

A couple of locals we talked to in Cairo and Alexandria hinted at there being ferries to Saudi Arabia from Hurghada or other places in Egypt, but no one knew much about it. Any sort of ticketing or travel agent we asked said no such thing existed and tried to sell us flights to Riyadh. That only strengthened our resolve and we were determined, Insh’Allah, to arrive in Saudi Arabia by ferry.

Based on a conversation with a taxi driver, and a single report we’d found online, we were fairly certain that there were in fact ferries going from Safaga in Egpyt to Duba, in Saudi Arabia. And as far as we could find out, there were no passenger ferries at all to Jeddah or leaving from anywhere else in Egypt. So after a few chill days in Aswan we headed back north to Luxor and from there to Safaga, which we’d never heard of before and with good reason, because it’s a fairly unappealing town.

This post is about our experience crossing the Red Sea from Egypt (Safaga) to Saudi Arabia (Duba) by ferry.

Before you go

You most likely need a visa for Saudi Arabia (check that, according to your nationality). The visa process is online and very straightforward.

The overnight ferry trip is about nine hours long, not counting a LOT of additional time for checking in, waiting, loading, dis/embarking, and so on. It runs every night but you have to find go to the office and get tickets ahead of time. You can’t just show up and try to buy on the spot at the port or online. I’ll get to all this in the next section.

The vessel has a very basic cafeteria with cheap food. It served breakfast in the morning of eggs, foul, bread, and tea. There was dinner available too. There’s a ‘family room’ for women and couples to eat in. Get used to that.

The ferry is a passenger and cargo vessel, so if you have a vehicle you can get it across. Shipping a car/motorcycle will entail a whole extra whack of formalities and I’ll bet it’s time-consuming. We saw the security officers removing the tires from a vehicle and running them through the x-ray in a pre-boarding inspection.

Have an eSim like Airalo already downloaded and ready to go. Bring the last of your local currency for food onboard – cash only, of course.

Remember, Saudi Arabia is very conservative. Women should cover up as much as possible but foreigners don’t need to wear a hijab or abaya. Most women in Saudi Arabia wear a fully covering black niqab, even though it’s not mandatory anymore. For that matter a lot of women wear it in Egypt.

Luxor to Safaga

Safaga is about three and a half hours by bus from Luxor. There are several bus companies near the train station in Luxor. We left late in the day so we spent the night in Safaga, plus the next night since it took an entire day to find the shipping line and get tickets. The ferry boards and leaves at night so in theory you could do it all in a day if you move fast.

Get your ferry tickets

Our very nice host in Safaga picked us up on the side of the road when we arrived well after dark, and drove us to the apartment we were staying in. On the way he showed us a ticketing office for a ferry company called Namma Shipping. He thought we might be able to get tickets there (we’d seen them online too, but couldn’t find any passenger info).

So the next day we walked around asking about ferries to Saudi Arabia at shipping offices and travel agents and random people near the port. With all signage in Arabic this was not particularly easy to do. We checked at a company called Triumph – they were closed. We checked in person at Namma Shipping but sure enough, they were no longer running passenger ferries. Eventually someone in a cargo office understood enough English to get what we were on about. He gave us the phone number of Mr. Alaa, who seemed to be singlehandedly responsible for all activities at the port. (NOTE: send me a message from the Contact page on this blog, if you want the phone number.)

Mr. Alaa told us to show up at his office later the same day – they don’t open most days before noon (get used to that before heading to Saudi Arabia, too). Mr. Alaa’s company’s name translates to International Union Shipping Company. They are also called Kenzy Travels, not sure if it’s a separate travel agency or an affiliate inside the shipping company, for handling ferry passengers. Doesn’t really matter. Either way, we found the office on the fourth floor of this building, next to the El Jawhara Inn. Look for the sign with an anchor on top of the building:

UPDATE in 2025: Kenzy Travels has moved their office to a location in front of the New Police Station.

Bring cash, your passport, and a printout of your e-Visa for Saudi Arabia.

Mr. Alaa and his numerous colleagues were upstairs in their office chain-smoking. They gave us a breakdown of the ticket options and we sprung for a private cabin which was reasonable. The other option was regular open seating (Pullman seats) which I don’t think would be a particularly great idea. They took our passports and Saudi visas and spent an insanely long time entering everything in the computer, smoking, and printing stuff off.

We paid cash, and they told us to come back later the same evening to collect our documents and tickets, and board the ferry.

Yalla!

UPDATE in 2025: I’ve been told the process is more efficient now, and it’s possible to get your tickets right away and sail at 8pm on the same day.

UPDATE in 2026: the ferry still runs only to Duba (not Jeddah). It’s possible to arrange your tickets over WhatsApp without having to go to the Kenzy Travels office in person (if you have the WhatsApp number, that is…). Get in touch a couple of days ahead of time and confirm. Re-confirm timing again on the day, meet at the port to get your ticket, and pay cash. I’d ask for a receipt or at least a proper ticket. Tickets are still 4000 EGP.

Departure, and onboard the ferry

Back in the hazy cloud of smoke in Mr. Alaa’s office that evening, we collected our passports and sat waiting – for a couple of hours. Luckily there’s not much to do in Safaga anyway.

The office is within walking distance of the port and eventually we set off on foot with one of Mr. Alaa’s assistants. It seems that a personal escort to the port, through immigration, and onto the vessel is just part of the service. Not a bad idea actually, since the port is a bit of a maze. It’s not common for foreigners to make the trip and according to the passenger manifest we were the only two non-Egyptian or Saudi nationals onboard, so they kept tabs on us.

There are several stages of queueing up outside the port compound, showing your passport and ticket, and paying some small fees like departure tax for which you should get a receipt. Make sure you bring Egyptian pounds. There’s a short bus ride inside the port – we opted to walk since we were running low on pounds, and then a police officer ended up driving us.

Then you go inside and wait again with everyone’s passports in a huge pile on some officer’s desk while he and everyone else smokes like crazy. You can use the time to fill out some exit forms. Eventually, you’ll get your passport back with the stamp and can rush outside for fresh air and then wait for hours in another dense cloud of smoke until they let you board.

Foot passengers board the ferry first and then all the vehicles and transport trucks are loaded onboard. As you board you go straight to reception, show your boarding card, and get your cabin number and a key. We went to our comfortable cabin and made ourselves at home. Then we wandered around the vessel. No celebratory beers on this boat, by the way.

Don’t worry about setting an alarm. You’ll be woken up by morning prayer, broadcast over the ship loudspeakers and in your room.

There’s plenty of time to get breakfast in the cafeteria and wander around the ferry. There are hot water samovars onboard and we had our aeropress along of course, so we made coffee and took a morning stroll.

Arriving in Saudi Arabia

Although we were on the ferry in Egypt by about midnight, it didn’t actually depart until much later. We arrived in Saudi Arabia around 14:00 the next day, at the Port of Neom which is about thirty-eight kilometers north of Duba itself.

The port terminal is small and fairly organized. Join/start the queue for passport control and away you go! It took a very long time, even though we were the only two foreign nationals onboard. However, the immigration officer was the first person to wish me Happy Birthday, since Oyv forgot, so that was really nice.

We didn’t see any ATMs at the port, at least none that were operational.

Here’s a map with the blue pin indicating where the port is in relation to town:

Neom Port to Duba (the ‘Pearl of the Red Sea’)

Back in Egypt we’d met a friendly Saudi businessman who complained non-stop about Egyptians and was very keen to leave Egypt. He was traveling on the ferry with us and before we all went off to our cabins he’d enthusiastically welcomed us to Saudi Arabia and informed us we’d like it a lot better than Egypt (we liked Egypt just fine, a lot actually, but anyway).

The next morning we saw him again as we disembarked and he very kindly waited for us outside while immigration painstakingly processed our e-Visas. When we got out to the carpark we barely had a moment to realise there was no transport to town before he materialised beside us and offered a ride to Duba. We gratefully took him up on the offer and he not only drove us to Duba but insisted on helping us find a hotel.

Moral of the story, Saudi Arabia is a car-based country and public transport can be hard to come by in remote areas. The Neom port is in a remote area so you may have to rely on meeting a kind fellow passenger as we did, or hitch-hike to Duba. Apparently it’s easy to hitch-hike in Saudi Arabia, but they do drive like hell there, so be warned.

In Duba, which for some inscrutable reason is called the ‘Pearl of the Red Sea’, your accommodation options are expensive and limited – although not as limited as the food choices. I suggest you get some money (plenty of ATMs around), get a bus ticket, and get out the next day.

We stayed the night, got bus tickets, and traveled to Yanbu (five and a half hours), stayed a night there and carried on to Medina the day after that. That was a smooth trip – roads are good but distances are huge in Saudi Arabia.

Here’s a map with the blue pin indicating where we found the bus station and got our tickets. We stayed at one of a couple of hotels just two minutes away on foot:

Incidentally, Duba is not the only ‘Pearl of the Red Sea’ we’ve come across. There’s an almost-ghost-town in Eritrea laying claim to the same nickname, and you can rest assured we’ve been there too.

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Once you get to Saudi Arabia and are thinking about what to do next: have a look at our travel itinerary and route, here.

We’ve crossed a lot of borders by all sorts of random transport. Have a look at our border crossing reports  and travel guides for strange stories and sage advice.

The post Taking the ferry from Egypt (Safaga) to Saudi Arabia (Duba) appeared first on WhirledAway.

Religious pilgrim or not, if you’re traveling in Iraq you will want to go to these cities for sure.

Due to the possibility of sectarian violence there is tight security and police presence on the way to and in both Karbala and Najaf. You’ll get used to it quickly and won’t notice it too much. Just follow the rules about clothing and be respectful at the checks.

A lot of the info in this post – what to wear, and rules for visiting the mosques and the shrines – applies likewise to the mosques Al-Askari in Samarra and Kadhimiya in Baghdad.

Karbala or Najaf?

Ideally I’d try to stay a couple of nights each in both Karbala and Najaf (that’s what we did). If you’re short on time you could base yourself in one of them and daytrip for part of a day to the other. We found better accommodation options in Karbala, but in Najaf the shrine complex is even more impressive (and that is saying a lot).

Plus you have Wadi Al Salam, the world’s biggest cemetery in Najaf, and that alone is worth having a look.

There are also great labyrinth-like souks to wander through in Najaf especially.

Karbala – the Shrines of Imam Hussain and Abbas

In the heart of the old city are the massive Holy Shrines of Imam Hussain (a son of Imam Ali) and of his half-brother Abbas. These two shrines are the focus of Karbala and of everyone in it.

Hussain and Abbas were martyred together in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD, fought over succession to the caliphate. Hussain’s mosque is said to be built on the very site of the battle, itself one of the most important events in Shia beliefs.

Karbala also hosts the world’s largest annual public gathering. Not every day, of course, although it can honestly feel like that in the old city especially at night. The Arbaʿeen pilgrimage marks the end of a forty day period of mourning after the martyrdom of Imam Hussain, during which the battle and Hussain’s death are recreated, to a lot of frenzied grief and apparently even some self-flagellation. Millions of people (mostly Shia) travel to Karbala – many walk hundreds of kilometers to join in. If you’re going to be in Karbala at the same time you definitely want to be aware of that in advance since the city will be bursting at the seams.

Najaf – the Shrine of Imam Ali

The main attraction here: the Holy Shrine of Imam Ali, 4th Caliph and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed. The shrine complex in Najaf is even more impressive than in Karbala, if that’s at all possible, and also thronged by pilgrims day and night.

Ali was stabbed in 661 AD, while praying in the main mosque in Kufa, erstwhile capital of the Abbasid empire and bastion of his own support. His murder led to the Sunni-Shia schism.

Before he died, he ordered that his body should be placed on a camel, and the camel let to wander. Where it stopped, there he should be buried. And so his burial place was kept secret. Until they built this massive shrine and the city of Najaf on the spot, at any rate. Unless…you among those who believe he’s actually buried in Mazar-i-Sharif.

What to wear in Karbala and Najaf

Najaf, and Karbala are holy cities with a certain type of atmosphere. For women, an abaya and hijab or a chador is mandatory in the Haram part of these cities – the areas of the old city surrounding the shrines – and certainly in and around the shrines themselves. That means wearing it most of the time in Najaf and Karbala since you will likely spend the bulk of your time in those areas. As soon as you arrive at the haram area you need to have an abaya and hijab or a chador on. You can buy these on the way in from the new town and all over the haram. I bought mine in Baghdad and had it on when we arrived in each city, and that felt more comfortable.

It’s easy to see where the haram area begins. There are walls and security checks, which double as modesty checks for women and you’ll get no further without the right clothes. Men and women enter separately and the women’s checks are inside big tents signed with pictures of women wearing abayas. Although you don’t have to wear it outside these holy areas you might as well because you’ll really stick out otherwise. At very least, I’d wear a loose headscarf.

Inside the holy areas and the shrines themselves, not even a strand of visible hair is allowed. I was flagged a few times for this: workers with huge green feather dusters tapped me and pointed it out. So I bought an undercap – basically a tube top for your head – to solve this problem. Just go to any market stall selling women’s clothes and accessories and ask for a cap. You can also get a hijab stuffer while you’re at it.

Visiting the shrines in Karbala and Najaf

You’ll easily spend a couple of days just visiting the mosques, they are magnificent and fascinating. We went several times any given day to experience the atmosphere at night, in the afternoon, and so on.

When you visit, here are some things to keep in mind:

• there are separate sides in the mosques for men and women so if you’re with someone, expect to split up
• these places are massive. take note of the name or number of the gate you enter at, so as to exit again where your shoes are (and potentially your partner)
• women can wear makeup. I saw plenty of women inside with a faceful of it and I had some on myself.
• cameras are not allowed but phones are fine. In certain spots it’s clearly signed if you can’t take photos.
• there is free storage for your shoes and also for cameras or any other bags you might have. Purses are fine, you can take them with you.
• men and women enter separately, with separate security checks. This applies throughout town and you will go through these checks constantly.

Where we stayed in Karbala

We stayed at the Mayali hotel. Like many others, this hotel is inside the old city area so we had to go through all the security checks to reach it. It cost 57k dinar for two people, per night, no breakfast included. It was perfectly clean and comfortable.

Where we stayed in Najaf

We stayed in the new city but still had to go through security to get to the hotel area. There are quite a few all in the same spot, and all fairly expensive. The first night we stayed at Nobles Palace Hotel for 70 USD and it was really nice. The next day we nevertheless moved across the street to Anis Al-Nufous Hotel for 20k dinar per person – very simple and basic but clean and fine. And noisy due to a huge family in the next room.

Daytrip from Karbala to Babylon

We couldn’t spend all our time ogling the ceilings in the shrines, so we daytripped to Babylon. Reaching Babylon by public transport is simple and you can do it yourself. Note that you can also make this daytrip from Najaf.

See this post for details about making a daytrip to Babylon from Karbala on public transport.

Getting to Karbala to Najaf

We went from Baghdad to Karbala and on to Najaf from there.

Baghdad > Karbala

From Alawi Garage in Baghdad somebody offered us a private taxi for 30k dinar to Karbala, but we took a coaster for 3.5k dinar each. Including traffic and getting off at a checkpoint to hang out with the police…the trip took about two and a half hours. We arrived late in the evening but the city was jam-packed with pedestrians and finding a room was not an issue.

Karbala > Najaf

From Karbala we walked to the garage and took a coaster to Najaf for 2.5k per person. That took just a little over an hour, with a short delay at a checkpoint. In Najaf the coaster dropped us in a garage a short distance from the haram area and there are busses that run the rest of the way into town for 1k.

Najaf > Nasiriyah

Eventually, we went from Najaf to Nasiriyah. In Najaf we got up at six and went out in the street to catch a cab for 5000 dinars to the Southern Garage. From there, it’s easy to catch a minibus to Nasiriyah for 10k each.

You can read about our entire itinerary in Iraq in more detail in this post: Iraq travel guide and itinerary.

Read More

If you’re planning a trip to Iraq, have a look at our Iraq travel guide and itinerary. And, find out more about our own independent travels in Iraq, here.

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

The post Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf appeared first on WhirledAway.

What’s this positive side? So very positive that it made us disregard grim advice like ‘draft a will and leave DNA samples with relatives’, and just grab our backpacks and go? Well, for starters, Iraq has history. Look beyond the lingering bad news and you’ll find 7000 jawdropping years of it. We’re talking about Mesopotamia, the land between two rivers, the cradle of civilization. Then there are the Iraqi people themselves, and their culture of ingrained hospitality. The spectacular shrines and religious devotion that draw millions of pilgrims every year. The souks, the tea houses, the busy streets of Baghdad, the ruins of Mosul where resilient citizens rebuild every day but still have time to offer snacks and kindness to strangers.

And of course, from urban exploring in one of Saddam Hussein’s abandoned palaces, to drifting quietly in the reedy channels of the Mesopotamian marshes at sunset, there’s the magnetic draw of adventure. Real travel, raw and a little rough around the edges, the not-quite-perfectly-smooth experience you can only have in so many places anymore, in this age of mass tourism.

Still, anyone planning a trip to Iraq will have at least a few questions surrounding visas, money, and transportation – for starters. Not to mention the big ones: is it safe? Is it possible to travel independently? Really – what’s it like to travel in Iraq? And maybe even: should I tell my parents*?

We had an amazing time traveling on our own in Iraq. That’s why we’re sharing our positive experience here, along with our 14 day itinerary for independent travel in Iraq in the hopes that if you are going too, we can answer some of those questions and help you plan your trip.

*You might decide to lie to your parents about going to Iraq;) I’m not exactly young, and my mother is in her 70s, but parents will always be parents no matter how old their kid gets. That being said, my mom is pretty chill. When we called her from Mosul and admitted where we were, she said ‘Well, I’m used to this stuff from you guys’. And then she wanted to hear all about it.

What’s it like to travel in Iraq
Tour or DIY: is independent travel possible in Iraq?
Visa
What to wear
Cash or card? Exchanging money
Getting around by public transport
Where to stay
Things to bring
Weather
On the road – our itinerary

What’s it like to travel in Iraq?

There are a few things to consider if you’re thinking about traveling in Iraq. As you’ll see in this post, we thoroughly enjoyed pretty much every second we were there, but it’s not for everyone.

Safety

First of all, is Iraq safe? Well, that’s not up to me to say. After reading the travel warnings from most western governments you’ll barely want to leave your house, much less go to Iraq. All I can say from our own experience is that we felt safe there and didn’t encounter any issues. However, Iraq is not a stable country. It’s one of those places which is safe until it’s not. You should be aware that the situation can change quickly, even during the course of a short trip. And, there are regional differences: certain areas (for example, near the Syrian border) should be avoided. The bottom line is you have to put some thought into it and decide for yourself. In our case, we decided to ignore what our government(s) had to say, but that is definitely a personal decision and if you feel it’s negligent, you might want to think twice.

Like it or not, check what your government has to say on the subject (hint: probably nothing good) – because it will have a big impact on your insurance.

Do your research. See what locals have to say, as well as any travelers who are there at the moment. The Iraqi Travelers Cafe Facebook group is good for that, along with a few other similar groups like Iraq Travel Community and Iraq Travel Tips. Join at least one of these groups as they are full of locals who offer guiding services and general advice.

In terms of personal safety, Iraq is considered fairly safe. Like any other city, Baghdad will have its share of pickpockets, areas to avoid at night, and so on. Just use common sense.

Security

How do you feel about police and military presence, lots of security, and checkpoints? What about guns? Blast barriers? If you aren’t already used to all those things, you’ll need to get used to them quickly. As you travel around you’ll pass through a lot of checkpoints, both on the road and sometimes on foot. Mostly you’ll just have to show your passport – make sure you’re always carrying it when you travel from one place to another or daytrip. No police ever stopped us to ask for it when we were just walking around, but we always had them with us.

From the officer who pulled us aside in the street to ask if we have kids and offer us water on a hot day, to the kitted-out soldiers at the Samarra checkpoints, to the policeman who pried open the locked gate at Saddam Hussein’s palace so I could wiggle out (yes, more on that later) – everyone we dealt with was fine. If not overtly friendly (and some were) then they were at least patient and polite.

Insurance

All this talk of safety and security brings me to insurance. Most insurance companies won’t cover you in Iraq since traveling there is advised against. Both IATI and Safety Wing do cover Iraq, and we bought our policy from IATI.

It’s very important to note that although IATI and Safety Wing ‘cover’ Iraq, they don’t in fact cover everything. Your policy won’t apply if something happens to you as a result of armed conflict, terror, or anything else related to the government travel advisories. But unlike most other insurance that is completely voided just by entering Iraq, these ones should cover your run-of-the-mill accidents, injuries, or illnesses.

Tour or DIY: is independent travel possible in Iraq?

Your experience in Iraq will differ depending on who you are and how you travel: ie male or female, solo or part of a group, and so on. Women especially, should be aware of social norms and how to interact with men.

In short, it’s absolutely possible (and certainly allowed) to travel on your own around Iraq – without a guide, driver, or tour group. Guided tours are no longer required.

If it makes you more comfortable you can sign on to a group tour before you leave home, and everything will be arranged for you. If you prefer a more spontaneous approach, try asking in the Facebook groups. Those are full of people offering everything from walking tours and driving services, to daytrips and fully guided tours. These are at least local-run and you can contact prospective guides on WhatsApp and plan as you go.

Consider your past travel experience, particularly in off-beat destinations – so no, not South East Asia. If you’ve traveled independently in the Middle East before (Lebanon, Palestine, Jordan), other Muslim countries (Sudan, Pakistan), or even Central Asia (hello share taxis and marshrutkas), then you’ll have an idea of how things work in general and should be able to get around and do your own thing. We found it easy to travel in Iraq by ourselves.

And consider your comfort zone: if you’re used to meeting tons of travelers when you’re on the road, think again. You will meet very few. Tourist infrastructure is limited too. Are you fine with hotels that are quite simple, power outages, and a very casual approach to, erm, everything (like laundry…)? Forget about planning a rigid schedule and booking tickets in advance, or using Apps to run your life smoothly. You’ll wing it most days and find transport as you go, tolerate random delays, and don’t get me started on the reckless driving.

We don’t speak Arabic but that was ok. Learn a few words and phrases, bring Google Translate, and you’ll be fine.

Carry your passport with you everywhere you go. You need it to buy tickets and enter sites, and at checkpoints on the road.

Visas

There are separate visas for Federal Iraq and for the Kurdistan region. The Federal Iraq visa is good for both. The Kurdistan visa which you can get on arrival, is only good in Kurdistan.

For the Federal Iraq visa you have to apply online in advance. Print and bring the e-Visa with you and get the sticker in your passport when you arrive. You can enter Federal Iraq with your e-Visa by air or by land.

Officially, if you are going to go to both Federal Iraq and Kurdistan, you should go to Federal Iraq first. The visa sticker you get there will let you into Kurdistan as well. If you do the trip in reverse, you’ll have to buy the Kurdistan visa first, and then the one for Federal Iraq.

However: despite the whole ‘separate visas’ thing, some people have been reporting in the past year that they successfully entered Kurdistan by land with the Federal Iraq visa, carried on to Federal Iraq, and just got stamped twice. A friend of ours did this.

When applying for the Federal Iraq e-Visa you’ll immediately see two options. Choose ‘Evisa direct’ – not ‘Create profile’. When selecting the visa type:

• A Visit visa costs 115 USD, has a validity period of 60 days, and allows a stay of 30 days. That means from when you receive the approved e-Visa, you have 60 days to enter Iraq. Regardless of when you enter during that validity period, you will then get your 30 days stay.

• An Ordinary visa costs 160 USD and has the same conditions, but I think the allowed stay is longer.

Both include mandatory health insurance.

Supposedly it takes up to 48 hours to get the visa approval but ours took less than a day. It can absolutely take longer than 48 hours, so we applied two weeks ahead just in case.

Print out your e-Visa and bring it. If you’re flying to Baghdad you’ll need to show it to get on the plane.

What to wear

Men can dress how they want but should avoid shorts, tank tops, and so on.

For women, dress modestly and always have a scarf handy. Think loose pants and long tops, long skirts or dresses, long sleeves. If you’re going to go anywhere religious (um, and you will) you will have to wear an abaya and hijab or a chador. You can buy everything easily in Baghdad. You won’t have to cover your face. All women should dress conservatively all the time, solo women especially so.

In Baghdad I wore jeans with a long shirt, and kept a scarf looped around my neck. In Mosul I dressed the same way and often wore a headscarf, but that’s not at all mandatory. The same goes for the Nasiriyah and the Marshes, and Basra.

Samarra, Najaf, and Karbala are holy cities with many shrines and a certain type of atmosphere. An abaya and hijab or a chador is mandatory in the haram part of these cities – the areas surrounding the shrines – and certainly in and around the shrines themselves. Although you don’t have to wear it outside these areas you might as well because you’ll really stick out otherwise.

Cash or card? Exchanging money

Bring most of the money you need in USD or Euro, and a few different cards. Yes, you can pull cash out of machines. But they are not always available or reliable, and the bank rate is not as good as the rate you’ll get changing cash. Official money changers are everywhere. You can also spot places with a visa sign, and take cash out (at bank rates, with a surcharge) against your card on a terminal.

Getting around by public transport

It’s easy to get around on public transport as long as you can cope with some amount of delay.

Transport congregates in and departs from garages. There are different types of transport, typically:

• Share taxis, which come in Dodge or GMC. These are regular cars taking 4 to 7 passengers. They charge by the seat. You can usually take a Dodge privately by negotiating a price.
• Minibuses, coasters. Smaller buses running middle to longer distances.

If the garage is big you’ll have to find the vehicles going your way – this is easy, just announce your destination and people will point you to the next car. Don’t expect a schedule. Share taxis and local minibuses don’t leave until they’re full. Overall I preferred GMCs. Faster but feel safer, more comfortable.

A really great thing about public transport in Iraq: there’s not a lot of touting (in fact there’s almost none). Unlike in some places, you can actually reveal your intended destination to the drivers and others in the car park and they’ll just indicate where you should go – not try to force you into a ride of their choosing. And, they don’t tend to inflate the cost simply because you’re foreign.

Download the Careem and Baly taxi apps and use those to get around in cities.

Where to stay

Hotels are plentiful, cheap, and for the most part basic but absolutely fine. We paid between 30k dinar (24 USD) and 50k dinar (38 USD) for a room. The outlier was Najaf where we paid 90k (70 USD) for a really nice room. Most hotels quoted us in dinar, per person. Note that when somebody says ie 50 dinar to you, they mean 50 000.

None of the hotels we stayed at were listed on Booking.com or similar. Of the hotels we either stayed at or checked, all had vacancies except one. We found them on Google maps or with a quick search, and then we’d just show up and ask to see a room.

You can reach out to some hotels in advance on WhatsApp if you can find a number. Otherwise, you can book the more expensive options that are listed on Booking.com.

Even cheap hotels provide basic amenities and the ubiquitous bathroom shoes, but don’t count on toilet paper, or towels for that matter. Drinking water is easy to come by: we usually found cases of it in room fridges or piled in the hallways. There was always WiFi, but often slow (or off altogether with the power).

Couch surfing is also an option.

Things to bring

Trouble packing? Same. Here are some things we brought.

• the Bradt guide for Iraq. Although much of the safety information is out of date now there is loads of useful context and history.
• a marriage certificate if you’re traveling with your partner and planning to sleep in the same room. They usually don’t ask foreigners, but we were asked for it at least twice.
• download your maps and apps ahead of time. Particularly useful: Google Translate, Maps.me, Careem and Baly (taxis).
• get an eSIM or buy a physical SIM on arrival. We used Airalo and it worked well.
• since we don’t care for starting the day with 30 tiny cups of tea, we always bring an aeropress and coffee
• a water bottle with filtration like Larq or Crazy Cap is a good idea. Plastic is rampant in Iraq.
• a fully loaded powerbank for regular electricity outages
• a sleepsheet for some hotels
• toilet paper, hand sanitizer, wet wipes
• get your abaya in Baghdad before you head to Najaf or Karbala

Weather

We were in Iraq in December. It was mild to chilly during the day, but keep in mind this is a destination where you tend to have a lot of clothes on anyway. In the evenings we needed a fleece or jacket. We got a very little rain. The mornings were incredibly foggy to the point of whiteouts.

Kurdistan is much colder at that time of year.

On the road – our itinerary

We spent about two weeks in Iraq. Starting in Baghdad we looped up north to Mosul and back, carried on south to the border, and then on to Kuwait.

This is our itinerary for 14 days in Iraq. Feel free to copy it and make your life easier: it worked very well for us. This post doesn’t go into a lot of detail about all the things you can see and do along the way, but will hopefully help you figure out where to go and how to get there.

As you’ll see, it’s a good idea to base yourself somewhere and make daytrips. It’s also possible to do some of the daytrips on your way from one base to the next.

Days 1, 2 – Baghdad
Days 3, 4, 5 – Mosul (daytrip Hatra)
Days 6, 7- back to Baghdad, and on to Karbala (daytrip Samarra)
Day 8 – Karbala (daytrip Babylon)
Days 9, 10 – Najaf (daytrip Kifl)
Day 11 – Nasiriyah, Ur, and the Mesopotamian marshes
Days 12, 13 – Basra
Day 14 – the Safwan border and on to Kuwait

Days 1, 2 – Baghdad

We had a day and a half in Baghdad, then came back again later. That was enough for us because a lot of the major tourist sites were/are closed. We used Careem occasionally but walked a lot just to be out in the streets. People are very friendly and welcoming and once we got over the feeling of ‘welp, Baghdad?’ we felt super comfortable. Baghdad is after all, the ‘City of Peace’ although for its every rise in fortune there’s been a spectacular fall, ever since the one-time capital of the Muslim world was first established in the 8th century.

What with the Abbasid palace and school being closed, and the national museum, and the Martyrs monument…we just wandered around the old city, through some bazaars, along the Tigris, and enjoyed the city life like in any other. Zaza cafe in Al Mutannabi street serves good coffee, and of course for something more traditional we stopped by the famous Shabandar cafe.

Women should have a headscarf handy as you’ll need it to walk in the streets around Kadhimiya Mosque. Plenty of market stalls sell chadors and abayas and if you don’t have one already, buy one to go inside the mosque itself. You can read more about the ins and outs of visiting holy sites in Iraq, here: Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf.

Arriving in Baghdad

We flew to Baghdad from Istanbul, showing printouts of our e-visas to board the plane. In Arrivals, we went directly to the very noticeable queue for e-visas, where they checked our passports and visa printouts and put the stickers in our passports. Done. From there we moved over to the Immigration counters, showed our brand new stickers, and that was it.

In the Arrivals hall there are a couple of ATMs and currency exchange offices. Official taxis are available inside the airport. They charge 50k dinar and you book at the counter. If you go outside a bunch of other drivers will approach and you can haggle. You can also book a Careem but first, you’ll need to get a ride outside of the airport security zone.

We went outside because we love to start a trip off with petty haggling as soon as possible. We got a ride straight to the hotel for 40k dinar (30 USD). Before we’d pulled out of the car park the driver informed us that his father was Saddam Hussein’s Minister of Defense, and off we went to Baghdad.

Where we stayed in Baghdad

We stayed at Qasr Al Barakat, just off Sadoun street. We contacted them ahead of time on WhatsApp but there was plenty of availability. A double room including a decent breakfast was 25k dinar per person. There are plenty of cheap street eats around.

The WiFi was good. There were constant power outages but the generator usually kicked in quickly. It was noisy at night between the generator, cats on the roof, big families staying, and all that. It was absolutely clean enough and had basic amenities.

Days 3, 4, 5 – Mosul (daytrip Hatra)

Mosul: known to Christians and Muslims alike as the ‘City of Prophets’. Standing opposite the site of ancient Ninevah on the banks of the Tigris, it’s Iraq’s second city. When ISIS captured Mosul in 2014, around 70% of the old city was destroyed in the fighting. Today, Mosul’s incredibly resilient citizens are still rebuilding and reclaiming their home.

Mosul was an absolute highlight, I wouldn’t miss it.

It can be hard to get money in Mosul – ATMs are not plentiful or reliable. Better have USD or Euro with you and change it as you go. There’s no Careem in Mosul. Back to the good old days, bargaining rides in the street.

The very best thing to do in Mosul is just to be there. The people are amazing. Go for a walk, eat some food, drink some chai – you’ll see what I mean. Don’t even bother trying not to – everywhere we went people welcomed us, fed us, poured chai down our throats. It’s one of the friendliest places I’ve ever been.

The first day we hired a guide to show us around: someone who lives there, and was there during the worst of the conflict. That was eye-opening to say the least. You can easily find a guide in the Facebook groups I’ve mentioned. Our Mosul walking tour was a full day and covered the Old City, many mosques, churches, souks, a couple of museums, the city gardens, and lunch in Mahale 21 cafe.

NOTE: We’ve been to Kurdistan on a previous trip. But if you’re going there on the same trip, it would make sense to flip this around: follow the itinerary south from Baghdad first, then up to Mosul and on to Kurdistan after that.

Getting to Mosul from Baghdad

Transport runs to Mosul from Alawi Garage in Baghdad. It’s big but very easy to find your ride – everyone shouts out destinations and will point you the right way. Destinations are signed in Arabic so if you can read it, follow the signs.

We got the last two seats in a GMC and waited a couple of minutes to set off. That cost 20k dinar per person and dropped us off at a roundabout on the outskirts of Mosul where a ton of taxis were waiting to go the rest of the way into the city. The GMC driver said he’d take us right to the hotel for the inflated price of 10k dinar. Iraqi people are wildly hospitable but taxi drivers are the same everywhere.

There were six checkpoints on the way from Baghdad. We drove straight through three, stopped briefly at two where officers checked our passports, and at one we had to get out of the car and trudge off for a short chat in the boss’s office in a portable.

It’s about five and a half hours from Alawi Garage to the centre of Mosul, including a lunch stop where the driver was the only person in the car not punctually back and ready to go after thirty minutes.

Where we stayed in Mosul

We stayed at Hotel Kharamana in a double room for 15K dinar per person. The rooms and lobby are clean and comfortable. They don’t provide towels. The WiFi only works in the lobby or downstairs and not in the rooms. There’s a power outage (at least) once a day in the early evening when they change over from city power to the generators. The hotel staff are really friendly and we liked it a lot.

During our wanders around Mosul we found a brand new (literally, opened two days previously) boutique hotel called Manara Hotel over near the Great Mosque of Al-Nuri. It’s lovely and costs about 50 USD a night including breakfast.

Daytrip to Hatra from Mosul

The ruins of the ancient city Hatra make a good daytrip from Mosul. Once the fortified capital of the first Arab-ruled kingdom wedged between the Parthian and Roman Empires, Hatra was destroyed by a Sassanid king and deserted by the middle of the 3rd century AD. You’re probably more familiar with other Arab-controlled cities in the same kingdom: Palmyra, Baalbek, and Petra.

The well-preserved ruins were discovered in the 1800s, although not a lot of excavation was carried out until the 1900s. In the 1980s Saddam Hussein ordered some restoration work and as a result you can see bricks stamped with his name. More recently, Hatra was attacked again by ISIS who tried to bulldoze large parts of the site in 2015. They succeeded in destroying some statuary and riddling the walls with bullet holes, but otherwise most of the ruined ancient city is still intact.

Hatra is not reachable by public transport. You need a ride.

We arranged a taxi at our hotel’s reception. It cost 80k dinar/50 USD and included the driver picking us up at the hotel, driving us to the ticket office, on to Hatra, waiting there, and bringing us back. We spent about an hour at the site itself. Driving there and back took about one and a half hours each way, including the checkpoints that became quite frequent the closer we got (to Hatra, and so to the Syrian border).

Tickets are not sold at the site. Make sure your driver knows to take you first to the police station/office of antiquities, just outside town in Ninevah governate. It goes without saying, as you need it for checkpoints, but bring your passport. The ticket office only took credit card which was the exact opposite of what we expected.

Tickets – to all major historical sites – are 25k dinar each.

Days 6 and 7 – back to Baghdad, and on to Karbala (daytrip Samarra)

After Mosul we went back to Baghdad and stayed there one night. The next day we went to Samarra and then carried on to Karbala.

Getting to Baghdad from Mosul

We went to Baghdad Bus Station in Mosul which is very close to Hotel Kharamana. There were plenty of share taxis standing there ready to fight over us and we opted for a GMC. After waiting for some time the driver moved the car to the garage on the outskirts of town (at a roundabout in the direction of Baghdad) and we waited some more.

Eventually the driver rounded up a few more passengers and we left. It cost 20k dinar per person to Alawi Garage in Baghdad, and took five and a half hours including lunch.

We spent the night in Baghdad at the Qasr Al Barakat.

Daytrip to Samarra from Baghdad

Around 836 AD Samarra was designated the capital of Abbasid Empire by the Caliph Al Mutasim, who then devoted himself to building a glorious city as a reflection of his own greatness. After a brief moment in the sun – fifty years, to be exact – the city was suddenly deserted and the capital re-established in Baghdad.

To Shia Muslims, Samarra is a holy city – the Al-Askari mosque there contains the tombs of the 10th and 11th imams. However the town’s population is largely Sunni and security – which there is a lot of – is shared between an Iranian militia and the Iraqi army.

Down the road from Al-Aksari is the Great Mosque of Samarra, also known as Malwiyya mosque for the spiral minaret that stands beside it. You can at times climb the spiral minaret – but not at the time we were there. There are ruins of Abbasid palaces belonging to the Caliph and his son outside town but they leave a lot to the imagination. But at Abu Dalaf mosque there’s a smaller spiral minaret which tada! you can climb.

There are no hotels in Samarra (that allow foreigners anyway) but you can sleep overnight in the mosque. However the atmosphere in Samarra is infamously kind of strained and you’re probably better off just daytripping from Baghdad. Give yourself a full day with an early start.

There are a couple of ways to do this daytrip. Read about it here: Daytripping to Samarra from Baghdad.

And, you can read more about the ins and outs of visiting holy sites in Iraq, here: Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf.

Getting to Karbala from Baghdad

Our daytrip to Samarra included a ride back to Alawi Garage in Baghdad. There somebody offered us a private taxi for 40k dinar to Karbala, but we took a coaster for 3.5k dinar each. Including traffic and getting off at a checkpoint to hang out with the police…the trip took about two and a half hours. We arrived late in the evening but the city was jam-packed with pedestrians and finding a room was not an issue.

Day 8 – Karbala (daytrip Babylon)

Karbala: one of Iraq’s – if not Shia Islam’s – holiest cities. Home to two imposing shrines, there is serious pilgrim traffic here and a completely different atmosphere to Baghdad or Mosul. In the heart of the old city are the shrines of Hussain (a son of Iman Ali) and his half-brother Abbas, and they are the focus of Karbala and everyone in it. Hussain and Abbas were martyred at Karbala in 680 AD, in a battle over succession to the caliphate.

We stayed a couple of nights each in both Karbala and Najaf. If you’re short on time you could base yourself in one of them and daytrip to the other.

Due to the possibility of sectarian violence, there is a lot of police presence in Karbala and a lot of security. You’ll get used to it quickly and won’t notice. Just follow the rules about clothing and be respectful at the checks.

Read more about how to visit Karbala and its holy shrines, in this post: Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf.

What to wear in Karbala

As soon as you arrive at the edge of the old city near the haram area – the holy area surrounding the shrines – women need to have an abaya and hijab or a chador on. You can buy these on the way in from the new town and all over the bazaars in the old city area. I bought mine in Baghdad and had it on when we arrived. That felt more comfortable and easier since we arrived at night and I didn’t feel like clothes shopping. Outside the old city you can go without – but wear a headscarf at the very least. It’s easy to tell where the perimeter is: concrete barriers, police, gates, fences, and security surround the old city.

Where we stayed in Karbala

We stayed at the Mayali hotel. Like many others, this hotel is inside the old city so we had to go through all the security checks to reach it. It cost 57k dinar for two people. It was perfectly clean and comfortable.

Daytrip Karbala to Babylon

We couldn’t spend all our time ogling the ceilings in the shrines, so we daytripped to Babylon. Reaching Babylon by public transport is simple and you can do it yourself. If you want to visit Saddam Hussein’s palace at Babylon while you’re at it you need extra time and a local friend or a guide, because that site is closed to the public. Make sure you save your tickets to Babylon since access (if you can get it) to the palace is from inside the Babylon site’s checkpoints.

NOTE: you can also make this daytrip from Najaf.

For more about how to daytrip to Babylon yourself and (possibly) explore Saddam Hussein’s palace, see this post: Daytripping to Babylon from Karbala.

Days 9, 10 – Najaf (daytrip Kifl)

Like Karbala, Najaf is one of Iraq’s holy shrine cities. Here the shrine complex is even more impressive if that’s possible. Also like Karbala, you’ll find throngs of pilgrims day and night.

In the heart of the old city is the main attraction: the Holy Shrine of Imam Ali, 4th Caliph and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed.

Due to the possibility of sectarian violence, there is a lot of police presence in Najaf and a lot of security. You’ll get used to it quickly and won’t notice. Just follow the rules about clothing and be respectful at the checks.

Aside from the shrine, we spent some time getting lost in the souks, and in the old city itself. There’s a mosque on every corner.

We also got a look at Wadi Al-Salam, or ‘Valley of Peace’. The biggest cemetery in the world, it’s practically a suburb of Najaf, with millions of graves so far. You can wander into certain limited parts of the cemetery but a lot is off-limits and keep in mind: it’s a cemetery that’s still very much in use. The best way to get a good look is to go to the parking garage nearby and walk up to the top.

Read more about how to visit Najaf and its holy shrine, in this post: Visiting Iraq’s Holy Shrine cities: Karbala and Najaf.

Getting to Najaf from Karbala

We took a coaster from the Garage Unified in Karbala to Najaf for 2.5k dinar each. That took just a little over an hour with a short delay at a checkpoint.

In Najaf the coaster dropped us at the Najaf bus station a short distance from the old city. Buses run the rest of the way into town for 1k dinar.

What to wear in Najaf

As soon as you arrive at the edge of the old city near the haram area – the holy area surrounding the shrines – women need to have an abaya and hijab or a chador on. You can buy these on the way in from the new town and all over the bazaars in the old city area. I bought mine in Baghdad and had it on when we arrived. Outside the old city you can go without – but wear a headscarf at the very least. It’s easy to tell where the perimeter is: concrete barriers, police, gates, fences, and security surround the old city.

Where we stayed in Najaf

There are quite a few hotels in the same area just outside the haram area, and all fairly expensive. The first night we stayed at Nobles Palace Hotel for 70 USD and it was really nice. It included a good breakfast and was super clean. The next day we nevertheless moved directly across the street to Anis Al-Nufous Hotel for 20k dinar per person – very basic but clean. And noisy (so very many kids in the next room).

Daytrip from Najaf – Saddam Hussein’s palace, Kifl, and around

A local friend took us to some places out of Najaf, just to show us around the area. We went to the shrine of Dhul-Kifl/Ezekiel’s tomb, the spiky ruins at Borsippa thought to be the site of the Tower of Babel, and the Mosque of Prophet Abraham.

And absolutely not least, we got into Saddam Hussein’s palace at Babylon with our friend. As I’ve already mentioned, that site is closed to the public. You won’t get in on your own. If you’re hoping to go to the palace, build it into the same day as you visit Babylon, save your tickets, and remember – you’ll have to have a local friend or hire someone to take you.

We also went to our friend’s small home town, Kifl, dropped by his house, and met his family. He picked up a huge fish in Kifl’s old souk, had it grilled up, and we ate it on the banks of the Euphrates after a quick spin on a passing local’s boat. This was absolutely one of our favourite days in Iraq and captured perfectly the essence of this hospitable country and its welcoming people.

You could likely get to some of these places on public transport using Kifl as a hub. At any rate this post is the report of what we did in Iraq, so there you go.

Day 11 – Nasiriyah, Ur, and the Mesopotamian marshes

Saddam Hussein had the Mesopotamian marshes drained in the 1990s and built military access roads on top of them – despite the Marsh Arabs who had been living there for centuries at the time. After the fall of Saddam the dams diverting the Euphrates were destroyed, slowly restoring the marshes. As the water came back so did the Marsh Arabs, returning to their traditional reed houses and way of life.

We spent a very peaceful and comfortable night at a guesthouse in the marshes. The stay included almost three hours drifting in the reeds on a long boat at sunset, with masgouf fish for dinner. And an even better breakfast, as far as I was concerned: hot fresh bread, date syrup, home made buffalo cheese and warm milk.

While we were at it, we arranged a side trip to the Ziggurat of Ur since it’s on the way. You do not need a lot of time at that site so fitting it into the trip to or from the marshes makes sense.

Where we stayed in the Marshes

All this we arranged very easily by contacting a guesthouse owner who advertises his trips in the Iraqi Travelers’ Cafe Facebook group (many do). We set it all up a day or so ahead of time over WhatsApp.

Getting to the Marshes from Najaf (via Nasiriyah and the Ziggurat of Ur)

The main point of access to the marshes is the tiny town of Al Jubayish (also called Chibayish). To get there from Najaf we went to Nasiriyah and then picked up onward transport to Al Jubayish, with a detour first to the Ziggurat of Ur.

We went to the Southern Garage in Najaf at 6 am. From there we caught a minibus to Nasiriyah for 10k dinar each. That took about four hours. At the main garage in Nasariyah there was tons of transport and tons of interest in transporting us. We arranged a private taxi there to take us to the Ziggurat of Ur, wait for us, and bring us back to the same garage (making a quick falafel stop on the way). That costs 20-25k dinar, with some haggling.

Tickets to the Ziggurat of Ur are, you guessed it, 25k dinar each. With checkpoints it took about 45 minutes driving each way. The Ziggurat is fenced off and there is not much to see let alone actually get up close to. The history there is amazing! But we ended up wishing we’d just read about it and looked at pictures, and saved ourselves the bother. We spent thirty minutes wandering around the site.

Back at the garage in Nasiriyah, it was 5k dinar each in a share taxi to Al Jubayish, which took about an hour. There we met our host and went to the guesthouse in the marshes.

Days 12, 13 – Basra

After a breakfast of local milk and cheese at the guesthouse we headed straight to Basra. Old Basra is nice for walking around, as is the corniche. The Basra Antiquities museum is supposed to be really good and we wanted to go to but it’s – surprise – 25k each. At that point we were down to our last dinars to use up exactly before leaving the country, and didn’t want to change more.

Since we were there in December, we went to the Family Park for a pretty festive Christmas Market.

Getting to Basra from the Marshes

We took a taxi for 10k dinar to the garage in Al Madina from the guesthouse in Al Jubayish. That took about thirty minutes. From Al Madina we got a minibus to Basra for 3.5k dinar each. That took two hours.

Adam’s tree and the confluence of the Tigris and the Euphrates at Al Qurnah are on the way from Al Jubayish to Basra. If we’d thought of that in advance, we’d have taken a private taxi all the way from Al Jubayish to the hotel in Basra, stopping to see those sights along the way. That would have cost about 30k dinar.

Where we stayed in Basra

We checked a couple of hotels as there are many on Google maps all in the same area. We stayed at Jandian Hotel for 20k per person including a decent breakfast.

Day 14 – the Safwan border and on to Kuwait

We got up and ate one last breakfast in Iraq at our hotel in Basra. As usual on a border crossing day we got an early start, although nothing crazy – we left the hotel around 9.30 in the morning.

Have a look at this post about getting to the Safwan border, and on to Kuwait.

Read More

Read more about independent travel in Iraq. And if you’re crossing the border to Kuwait, have a read here.

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

The post Iraq travel guide and itinerary appeared first on WhirledAway.

It’s easy to get to Babylon by yourself on public transport. You could certainly sleep in nearby Hillah for the night, but either Karbala or Najaf is more interesting. I’d use one of those as a base and just daytrip to Babylon. We stayed in both Karbala and Najaf for a couple of nights each.

This post is about how to get to Babylon from Karbala, and explore Saddam Hussein’s palace while you’re at it (…if you’re lucky).

Ancient Babylon, a constant work in progress

Perhaps the ongoing cycle of destruction and restoration started around 600 BC, when King Nebuchadnezzar II drove the Egyptians out of Syria and then set his sights on Babylon. It had already been standing there next to the Euphrates for nearly 2000 years first in the form of a small village, then a brief and heady stint as an important capital, then dwindling into obscurity and sacked at least once.

The King’s idea was to make Babylon the most magnificent city in the world. It seems he succeeded, given that today we’ve all heard of his work – the Hanging Gardens, for example – even though there’s no trace of them left today.

Nebuchadnezzar died in 562 and Babylon’s good fortune ran out, falling to the Persian King Cyrus in 539, and eclipsed by Persepolis. Decline and destruction (and a spate of Zoroastrian fanaticism) left the city in bits and pieces by the time Alexander the Great turned up. He knew a good fixer-upper when he saw one, and started a new campaign of restoration. But then he died in Babylon in 323 BC. And the city changed hands again, and again, as Empires came and went for a few more centuries.

The Mongols descended on Mesopotamia in 1258 and the preservation – let alone restoration – of anything at all was not something they were known for. Hulagu Khan massacred the entire population of Baghdad and much of the surrounding countryside. There was barely time to recover from that before Timur swept in and unleashed another round of epic violence, in 1401.

In more recent times, excavation started on the ancient city in the 1800s and the cycle slowly started again. Saddam Hussein embarked on an extensive project in the 1980s, especially intent on restoring Nebuchadnezzar’s huge palace to its original glory. In fact he ordered so much work that Babylon became the most-restored site in Iraq. And just as Nebuchadnezzar had bricks stamped with his name, so too did Saddam. Both can been seen today.

You can still see original reliefs of bulls and chimeras, here and there. The famous Ishtar gate is a copy: the real one was dismantled and taken in (thousands of) pieces to Germany by the team of archaeologists who did the excavations after WW1. They put it back together in a museum in Berlin – and it survived WW2.

Babylon today, in our lowly opinion: not so interesting to look at. It’s so heavily restored as to feel practically new, while old parts are mostly rubble. You really need to use your imagination (and ideally bring a guidebook). Still, it IS Babylon and you should go.

Saddam Hussein’s palace at Babylon

Not just content with restoring Babylon, while he was at it Saddam Hussein had a palace built to look at it from, like a modern-day Nebuchadnezzar. It’s not known if he ever spent much time here – he had many palaces throughout Iraq – but there’s no stopping a megalomaniac from dreaming.

During the war in 2003 American forces captured the palace and used it as a base for a while. Once they left the locals descended, ripping out whatever they could use for their own restorations after the war.

Exploring inside the palace

Empty and abandoned, the palace looms over the silent kingdom of the distant past, and I’ll bet that you want to get in there for a look around. We definitely wanted to, so we came with a local friend.

If you’re going to try, you should time it for the same day you visit Babylon. You need two things:

• the ticket to the Babylon site, since access to the palace is from inside the historical site’s checkpoints
• a guide or a local friend to sort it out for you. The palace is fenced off and guarded by the military. Apparently you can talk to the guards for hours if you want, but the palace is off-limits and they will not let you in by yourself.

However you arrange this: finding a guide, or if you’ve got a local friend showing you around – it’s still not a guarantee they’ll let you in. But if they do, you walk around past the left side of the Ishtar gate and into a family park which costs 1k dinar for locals (…and people with them). From there it’s a short stroll to the fenced entry to the palace grounds.

With our friend we went right up the hillside and into the monstrous, abandoned relic.

We prowled through the echoing rooms and climbed the exposed staircases to the very top of the palace for a whole different look at Babylon.

How to get to Babylon from Karbala

Your transit point is Hillah, the city Babylon is just a bit north of.

From our hotel in Karbala, we walked to Hillah (Babylon) Terminal in the new city. There it’s easy to get a minibus going to Hillah for about 2k dinar per person.

After waiting for it to fill with passengers, it takes about an hour to Hillah. You get dropped off near a busy intersection under the bridge, and there should be at least a few taxi drivers around. Ask one of them to take you to Babylon. It might not be a bad idea to have a photo of the gate ready on your phone – as our driver first took us up the hill to the huge Babylon sign overlooking the city and we didn’t really want to go there.

The taxi cost about 5k dinar to the actual site itself and takes less than fifteen minutes. Tickets to Babylon cost 25k dinar each.

Getting back to Karbala from Babylon

First, we grabbed a taxi from the carpark out front next to the Ishtar gate back to Hillah. Tell the driver you are getting a bus to Karbala (or Najaf, as the case may be) – that’s what we did and the driver dropped us right off at the same busy intersection we arrived at. He even pointed out the next minibus we could go for.

If there isn’t a bus already waiting there, just watch and flag the next one heading back to Karbala.

Have a look at this post about Karbala and Najaf, for more information about the ins and outs of visiting these two holy cities.

Read more

If you’re planning a trip to Iraq, have a look at our Iraq travel guide and itinerary. And, find out more about our own independent travels in Iraq, here.

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

The post Daytripping to Babylon from Karbala appeared first on WhirledAway.

Today, Samarra is a holy city for Shia Muslims: the Al-Askari mosque contains the tombs of the 10th and 11th imams. However the town’s population is largely Sunni and security – which there is a lot of – is shared between an Iranian militia and the Iraqi army, and so religious tensions can run high. After the fall of Saddam Hussein, Shia Iraqis retreated to their holy city and outbreaks of sectarian violence followed. ISIS left their mark on Samarra as well, attacking in 2014 although they never captured the town.

In recent years it’s been hard for visitors to get to Samarra. You needed special permission and a guide, or at least a local friend to help you out, but this doesn’t seem to be the case anymore.

There are no hotels in Samarra (that accept foreigners anyway) but you can sleep overnight in the Al-Askari mosque. However the atmosphere in Samarra is infamously kind of strained and you’re probably better off just daytripping from Baghdad.

This post is about daytripping to Samarra: how we arranged to go there from Baghdad, and then carried on to Karbala afterwards.

What to see in Samarra

Besides visiting the impressive shrines at Al-Aksari mosque itself, there are at least a couple of other points of interest in and around Samarra.

Right in town and down the road from the Al-Askari mosque is the Great Mosque of Samarra, also known as Malwiyya mosque for the spiral minaret that stands beside it. You can at times climb the minaret for amazing views – but not at the time we were there. It was closed and we could look at it only from behind a fence.

However, at Abu Dalaf mosque there’s a smaller spiral minaret which tada! you can climb – on a steep twisting ramp that dwindles down to a foot wide. The minaret stands amid the ruins of another 9th century Abbasid city called Jafariya, out in the desert just beyond the military defenses, security, and checkpoints of Samarra.

There are also some Abbasid palaces belonging to the Caliph and his son outside town but they leave a lot to the imagination, in addition to being closed at the time we were there.

How to get to Samarra from Baghdad

From Baghdad it takes about two hours to drive to Samarra. With another two hours for the return trip to Baghdad and at least two hours for Samarra itself, give yourself a full day with an early start. On public transport you’d need to give yourself more time for waiting around. And, keep in mind that if you take public transport to Samarra, security might not let you wander around freely once you get there.

There are a couple of ways to arrange a daytrip:

• You can take a share taxi from Alawi garage in Baghdad going to Tikrit or Mosul and have it drop you at the first checkpoint outside Samarra. From there, the police will probably make you arrange another taxi to cart you around Samarra itself. Also, the distance to Abu Dalaf is about 20km and I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t let you walk it (or try to hitch) anyway.

• You can hire a guide with a private car to take you there and back himself. We contacted some guides in the Facebook groups and got quoted 150-160 USD.

• You can go to Alawi garage and hope to hire a private taxi there that will do the same, and be ready to negotiate pretty hard on that.

• You can pre-arrange yourself a private taxi to take you there and back again. This what we did and we had the hotel just set it up for us, for 100 USD. This was fine for us. You just need the car, and the driver to talk for you at the checkpoints. Plus, he will probably ‘supervise’ you a bit, similar to a guide, just cheaper.

We arranged our trip to include picking us up at the hotel, driving to (and waiting at) Samarra and a couple of other sites in the area, and dropping us off at Alawi Garage in Baghdad afterwards so we could get onward transport to Karbala. Since we weren’t going back to the hotel in Baghdad, we threw all our stuff in the trunk and took it with us, which also made this a good option for us. All in all, we were with Hossein the driver for eight hours.

No matter how you go you have checkpoints galore, first out of Baghdad and then into Samarra. Some of them took a while but overall they weren’t a big deal. Once you arrive, you’ll notice there is plenty of police and army presence, blast walls, razor wire, sandbags and all that, pointing to the town’s complicated history and relatively recent tensions.

There is a final passport and driver ID check before you can enter town. No one took our passports to keep while we were there (as I’ve read was the case before).

About visiting Al-Askari mosque

Women should bring an abaya and hijab or chador as you’ll need it for Al-Askari mosque. There are stalls selling abayas and chadors just outside the checkpoints for the mosque, and places you could change clothes but it’s better to just come properly dressed. There is a security/clothing checkpoint on the way into the haram area where on the women’s side they will also make sure you’re dressed properly, hair covered, and so on.

After the checkpoint we boarded a free bus loaded with some pretty serious chanting pilgrims, which runs you up to the shrine. I assume you can just walk, it’s no distance at all, we were just beckoned enthusiastically onto the bus and so we got on.

Where you get off there are some public bathrooms and another checkpoint to pass through and then you get to shoe and bag storage in the forecourt. Men and women can mingle there, before you reach the separate entrances to the actual mosque.

Cameras are not allowed in – phones are ok. If there’s a problem with photos anywhere it’s posted. It’s allowed taking photos in front of the mosque. Remember ladies, do not show a strand of hair or a member of the green feather duster army will tap you and admonish you to cover it up.

The mosque serves food and tea all day long. Just like anywhere else in Iraq there are plenty of friendly people, and we ended up having lunch (the two of us separated of course) with an Iraqi family.

See this post about Karbala and Najaf, for more information about the ins and outs of visiting these sacred religious sites.

Getting from Samarra to Karbala

From Samarra we drove back to Baghdad (about two hours) and Hossein dropped us as planned at Alawi Garage. There somebody offered us a private taxi for 30k dinar to Karbala, but we took a coaster that was ready to depart, instead.

Including traffic and getting off at a checkpoint to hang out with the police, the trip to Karbala took another two and a half hours. We arrived late in the evening but the city was jam-packed with pedestrians and finding a room was not an issue.

Read more about Karbala, and how to travel independently throughout Iraq, here.

Read more

If you’re planning a trip to Iraq, have a look at our Iraq travel guide and itinerary. And, find out more about our own independent travels in Iraq, here.

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

The post Daytripping to Samarra from Baghdad appeared first on WhirledAway.

Iraq is one of those places where things can change at any time, so if you’re following this (or any) post in reverse (to Iraq), you should check on the security situation before you consider going. And, if you’re going to Iraq then you can read my guide about traveling in this amazing country.

With that in mind, if you ever wondered how to cross the Safwan border from Iraq to Kuwait by road, then read on.

Before you go

Visas

We got the Kuwait e-Visas online ahead of time. You don’t have to do this but I’d recommend it since it makes the border crossing process much faster. It’s also cheaper: the e-Visa is about 15 USD, and buying a VOA is almost double. We got the e-Visa in about a day.

Money

You can use your bank and credit cards at ATMs and everywhere else, in Kuwait. Just tap. However, it doesn’t hurt to bring a few Kuwaiti dinars with you when you’re crossing the border. There’s a mandatory bus you have to pay for to ride around no man’s land and all that. We changed the last of our Iraqi dinar to Kuwaiti in a little shop on the border.

The route – Basra to the Safwan border

There are a couple of ways to reach the Safwan border crossing from Basra:

• take a taxi (Careem) to Basra garage. There, pick up a share taxi or a mini bus to Aczubayer, that’s a quick trip. From there, take another taxi to the Safwan border. I’m not sure what this costs but I’d guess not much. It’ll take one and a half to two hours depending on how smoothly your rides line up.

Or, especially if you are two or more, just do what we did:

• take a taxi (Careem) all the way straight to the border for around 20k dinar. That took about an hour and zero fuss.

Crossing the border

We got out at the border and said goodbye to the Careem driver who was super nice and wished us welcome back to Iraq another time. We were seriously sorry to go at this point.

Exiting Iraq

We walked right up to the first office building where the Iraqis took a quick look at our passports and ran our bags through the x-ray. From there, another short walk to Iraqi Immigration where they took our passports and stamped us out.

As you exit Immigration and continue your stroll, you see a couple of shops. We stopped there to change the last of our Iraqi dinar to Kuwaiti dinar in the little supermarket.

Then you walk to the big covered parking lot and wait for the bus.

Entering Kuwait

When the bus finally appeared, we rode it (not by choice) to Kuwaiti Immigration, which cost 1 KD, took about five minutes, and was generally annoying because we had to wait for it forever. As far as I know, walking across is just not allowed.

Inside Kuwaiti Immigration we took our e-Visa printouts and passports to the desks on the right side of the room and did all the visa checking and biometric stuff there. This was pretty quick. As I said before, the e-Visa isn’t mandatory but it’s definitely a time-saver. If you haven’t got it, I’m not sure what the process is but someone in that office will direct you.

After the photos and fingerprinting, we took our passports to the main counters and got stamped. Keep your visa printout handy because everyone will demand to see it until you clear this border zone.

We got back onto the bus and drove for literally two seconds, during which there was another passport and visa check.

Off the bus again, it was time to drag our luggage off with us and run it all through the x-ray we’d parked next to. Women have to go separately to other side of the lot and into an office, taking their bags with them. In there, female officers check purses and makeup bags and you get a little note to hand to the guard back at the bus again.

Reunited at the bus next to the x-rays, we got back onboard for some more visa checking and a two minute drive through the gate.

Into the city

Outside the gate, we got off the bus in another carpark and the taxi drivers pounced. From what we heard, you can expect to pay 40 to 50 USD for the trip. We painfully negotiated 45 USD and still the driver tried for more when we reached the hotel. You can pay the taxi in KD if you have it or in USD. The trip is 90 kms and took an hour and half or so. We had ours drive us straight to the Best Western in Salmiya.

Yalla! Door to door in four and a half hours. Welcome to Kuwait.

Read More

For more about traveling in Iraq and things to see and do while you’re at it, check out this guide about traveling in this amazing country: Iraq travel guide and itinerary.

And, if you’re planning some travels in the Middle East on the way, take a look at these posts from other countries in the area.

The post How to cross the Safwan border from Iraq to Kuwait appeared first on WhirledAway.

Booking tickets online is not a thing. So at breakfast one day on the patio at our guesthouse in Livingstone, I asked our host about the train. He laughed. I showed him the email address and WhatsApp numbers I’d found online. Not just anywhere online either – right on the TAZARA website. ‘Sure, you can try to book tickets’ said Remy, and laughed again and went back inside.

It would have been faster to go by bus (well, it would have been fastest by air, but that’s no fun). At any rate we weren’t going to get there any faster by relaxing at the guesthouse, so I sent a flurry of WhatsApp messages and emails.

Back at the breakfast table two days later, I smugly announced to Remy that someone had responded to me on WhatsApp. There was a train on the following Tuesday, and we could have two berths on it. Remy seemed surprised, not just that we’d got tickets but that we wanted them in the first place. Most of his guests wanted to bungee jump from the bridge over Victoria Falls and it was obvious Remy thought that was a preferable activity. But we are suckers for unreasonably long train trips, and had been looking forward to this one for quite some time.

Fast forward a week or so and we were aboard the TAZARA train, tickets and all. Good thing we had those tickets, too, unlike a random passenger who boarded without one and got a resounding slap in the face from the conductor for it.

That’s right, this isn’t your average train trip. We thoroughly enjoyed it from start to finish, possibly in part because neither of us got slapped in the face.

This post is about our experience aboard the TAZARA train, traveling from Zambia (New Kapiri Mposhi) to Tanzania (Dar es Salaam). It’s a guide to whatever you need to know to take the same journey, and what awaits you along the way. And – if you’re in the neighbourhood, then you should definitely take this journey.

All aboard? Oh well, no rush…

The TAZARA train route

The TAZARA is an international train, running between New Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. It’s a great way to cross the border and travel between these two countries, but you need time and flexibility to fit it into your plans. Don’t expect it all to go smoothly.

**UPDATE in 2026: the train will resume cross-border services as of February 2026. If you do this trip in February or later in 2026, please feel free to share any other new or changed info regarding schedule, etc, that you might (possibly:)) learn, in the comments on this post or send me an email. As you can see, the train is a bit ‘on again/off again’.

*UPDATE in 2025: the train does not currently run cross-border. You can take a train from New Kapiri Mposhi to Nakonde, the Zambian side of the border. Then you make your own way across the border by bus or taxi and on to pick up another train in Mbeya, Tanzania, to Dar es Salaam (or vice versa). These are separate trains requiring separate tickets, and apparently the arrivals and departures don’t really align well so you’d need even more time to patch it together. Hopefully they’ll resume cross-border services in the future, you never know. Check the TAZARA website and try the contacts there.

There are two trains per week going in opposite directions, the ‘Mukuba Express’ and the ‘Ordinary’ train:

• The Mukuba Express train departs Dar es Salaam on Fridays around 4pm. It departs New Kapiri Mposhi on Tuesdays around 2pm. If it ran according to schedule it would take approximately 46 hours.
• The Ordinary train departs Dar es Salaam on Tuesdays around 2pm. It departs New Kapiri Mposhi on Fridays around 2pm. This one takes an indefinite amount of time. There isn’t even an indication of the schedule on the TAZARA site. It stops at every single station so I think you can just assume it takes ‘a hell of a long time’.

You’ll cross the border on the train. It stops on both sides for everyone to get out and do passport control, visas on arrival, change money, and so on.

Before you go

It was suggested to us by a TAZARA employee on WhatsApp that the train might take about forty hours, or less, or more. It took sixty in the end, so best come prepared.

• You’re going to cross a border, so make sure your nationality is eligible for visa on arrival or visa-free. Entering Tanzania, you’ll need fifty USD for the visa. Bring a pen.
• Tanzania requires proof of yellow fever vaccination so get the shot and bring your international vaccine card. Otherwise, you’ll be getting the jab at the border, anti-vaxxer or not.
• You need cash in both local currencies to buy food on the train, depending which country you’re currently in. There are money changers on the border so you can exchange Kwatcha and Shillings as needed. Know the rate.
• If you plan to be online at all, make sure you have e-SIMs for both countries downloaded. Service is slow and patchy so don’t rely on it.
• The train has a restaurant, bar, and lounge car. They serve meals at set times. Breakfast is a bit ghastly but lunch and dinner were good. They have bottled water, soft drinks, and beer – almost always warm. Bring some extra water and snacks. There was tea available in the mornings but not even instant coffee. We’ve always got an aeropress and coffee with us so we were set – we’d just ask for hot water.
• The train ran out of water on the second day and they never refilled the tanks despite idling for hours at a time in village stations. If you are really set on brushing your teeth and washing your hands, you’ll need to buy extra bottled water for that. Supposedly there are showers on board although I never saw them and since there was no water it didn’t matter anyway.
• The toilets were ok to start and got progressively worse. Bring toilet paper. There is a separate room with sinks for washing up (again, not so useful without water).
• Bedding is provided, on the Express in first class anyway.
• Don’t leave your valuables unattended. You won’t get a key to your compartment, so if you’re sharing with others coordinate that the last to leave locks up. Then, you have to find a conductor to let you back in.

Getting tickets for the TAZARA train

You can’t book this train online. Try to book tickets in person and pay for them on the spot, as paying is the only real guarantee you’re getting onboard. You can buy the tickets directly from the TAZARA offices in Lusaka, Dar es Salaam, and Kapiri Mposhi (but there’s absolutely no other reason to be in Kapiri Mposhi than departing on this train, so going there days ahead of time to buy a ticket would be weird). Note that if you’re picking up this train in Tanzania, Mbeya is also an option.

The trains do sell right out so you should definitely try to get tickets ahead of time – the TAZARA website itself suggests booking two weeks ahead. Waiting until you’re in one of the above-mentioned towns is a bit of a gamble. If you are dead set on a certain date and trying to book the train far in advance or from somewhere else entirely, I think you’d need to get a local travel agency to arrange it and pay up front for you.

But, if you aren’t worried about the exact date you travel and also don’t happen to be in Lusaka or Dar, you can consult the Tazara website for (some) information. Hilariously, the ticket fares page on the website is blank, but there is a list of email addresses and WhatsApp numbers for contacts in the local Tazara offices. To book the train you need to get in touch with one of these people, and make a reservation. Then, once you get to Lusaka or Dar you go straight to the office to pay and pick up your ticket.

We had no luck with the email addresses, but someone responded to one of my repeated WhatsApp calls and messages. I chatted with Agatha for several days, on and off. She rarely sent a clear answer but did say she’d reserved two berths for us.

What Agatha didn’t tell me was that this was not actually a reservation at all; it was more like she was just humouring me. When you book like this what you’re doing is basically putting your name on a list of people who think they might fancy taking a forty-eight hour train trip on that particular day.

We learned this a few days later when we arrived at the Inter-City Bus Terminal in Lusaka and set off to meet Agatha at the office in the TAZARA House building nearby. She informed us that there were exactly two berths still available. Mainly we were just lucky to get there before anyone else wandered in off the street and took the last two spots.

The key thing to remember here is: if you think you have a reservation, you probably don’t. So get the actual tickets in hand at least a day in advance or as soon as you reasonably can.

In general, about tickets:

• We didn’t have a preference regarding the Express or the Ordinary train. We took the next train with availability, which happened to be an Express.
• The tickets cost about 40 USD each, for first class on the Express. The office doesn’t take cards – bring cash. First class tickets on the Ordinary train are about 32 USD.
• Spring for first class. It costs only a little more than second. In first you have four berths per compartment. In second you have six berths, so it’s quite a bit more crowded. Third class is open seating and I’d strongly suggest avoiding it.
• If you want your own compartment you need to book all four (or six) berths. Otherwise, you get a berth in a shared compartment. They are separated by men and women. We would have booked our own compartment but there were literally just two berths left so we were split up, but that didn’t matter.

Livingstone/Lusaka to Kapiri Mposhi

‘TIA’ said Lance the guesthouse manager in Livingstone, when he heard that we’d arranged a ride to the bus station at 5.30 am the next day. Lance put the taxi driver’s number in his phone. ‘I’ll call him at 5 to wake him up.’ he explained. ‘TIA. And I’ll call you at 4.30 Lance.’ I said. Lance slapped his leg and laughed uproariously. And he was right, the driver never showed. But Lance got up and made us breakfast and then we caught our bus to Lusaka.

If you’re leaving from Livingstone, buy your bus tickets to Lusaka in person at the Inter-City Bus Terminal at least a day ahead. It takes about eight hours to get from Livingstone to Lusaka by bus.

When we arrived in Lusaka the first thing we did was pay for our train tickets. The TAZARA House office is near the bus terminal so we walked straight there. Then we booked seats on a bus the next morning to Kapiri Mposhi, and stayed overnight in Lusaka.

It takes about three and a half hours to get from Lusaka to Kapiri Mposhi, so leave early. We took the bus on the same day as the train was departing. This is doable, but since our bus bizzarely spent quite some time off-roading, we cut it close. If your mental health is already hanging by a thread, consider going to Kapiri Mposhi the day before. Counting on public transport is always a bit risky.

From the bus station in Kapiri Mposhi it’s a few kilometers to the New Kapiri Mposhi Railway Station. Lots of taxi drivers were lurking around when we got off the bus.

Aim to arrive at the station at least two hours ahead to be on the safe side.

Moral of this whole story so far, don’t waste time. You’ll do plenty of that later once you’re aboard the train.

Life on the TAZARA train

‘He looks like the guy from The Last of Us’ said The Dancer to me, and he pointed at Oyv. I looked across the table at Oyv, wearing his dark sunglasses and pushing down steadily on the aeropress as the train carriage lurched and swayed. The Dancer was the train employee who’d served all our meals so far in the restaurant car, and when he wasn’t serving up plates of ugali/nshima (depending which side of the border we were currently on) and greens, he was dancing up and down the aisle. It’s a long trip and there was plenty of time to people-watch.

Besides people-watching, since the train goes right through Selous Game Reserve you can do some wildlife-spotting on the way. The railway was built by the Chinese between 1970 to 1975, and runs through tunnels and across rivers and gorges. As the TAZARA website points out, this affords passengers the opportunity to ‘appreciate the awesome and inspirational engineering works of the Chinese’.

The train made lengthy and inexplicable stops of often an hour or more in every single little village we passed.

We’d get out for a look around, and sometimes random people would board and ride in the bar for a stop or two. Although the train ran out of water it never ran out of beer, despite the efforts of a local teacher who’d boarded in reasonable condition only to be incapacitated and physically dragged off the train by the barstaff a few stations later.

Tentatively scheduled to take forty-four hours, in the end it took sixty. As the train slowly chugged along with no particular end in sight, we just clattered around between our compartments and the lounge car. I made us a lot of PB&J sandwiches, Oyv brewed coffee whenever we could convince The Dancer to boil us some water, and we hung out in the lounge car sipping warm beers, talking to whoever else was around, and watching Africa roll by with each clacking turn of the wheels.

The border: Zambia (Nakonde) to Tanzania (Tunduma)

We arrived Zambia’s side of the border late in the afternoon on day two. We were tracking the train on maps.me and saw everyone getting off, so we got off too. There was no announcement.

The train stops very close to the locked immigration building. Eventually some officers came from town, after someone called and told them the train had arrived.

We got our passports stamped, changed money, and got back on the train. When it eventually rumbled back to life we rode a bit further to Tanzanian immigration, housed in what looked like an abandoned building. There we lined up again in front of a table to get our passports stamped and pay for the visas. All very ordinary, right up until a man wearing a white lab coat walked in with a cooler. He produced two syringes and vaccinated a couple of passengers on the spot. Like I said, bring your yellow fever certificate.

Arriving in Dar es Salaam

Although I noticed a door in our carriage marked ‘Broadcasting room’, at no time did the staff broadcast any announcements about delays, sudden departures from remote stations, arrival at the border, or any other useful information. When we arrived in Dar at the TAZARA Railway Station at about three in the morning, the conductor let us know by banging loudly on the compartment doors up and down the carriage.

At that hour of the night walking is decidedly out. If you arrive late and don’t want to take a taxi, then you can stay in the station until morning. I wouldn’t suggest actually sleeping, but it’s partially lit and there were a lot of people around. We took an Uber and went to Kibodya Hotel 6, banking on there being a night-guard out front who’d be able to wake up the receptionist and get us in (there was).

I was sorry to get off the train (not least because it was the middle of the night and I was tucked up snugly in my berth). It’s a long trip but if you like train travel in general, then this is for you. Just remember, maybe most importantly of all: embrace the feeling of ‘It gets there when it gets there. As Lance said, ‘T.I.A’.

Read More

This isn’t the only excellent train trip we’ve undertaken in Africa. We’ve also hitched a ride on Mauritania’s famous iron ore train, and you can read about it here: Extreme journeys: riding Mauritania’s iron ore train.

If you’re in Tanzania, you might want to check out these other posts about traveling in this amazing country.

And for more of our adventures (and misadventures) as we travel from Cameroon to Japan, check out the rest of my stories from the road.

The post Riding the TAZARA train: cross-border from Zambia to Tanzania appeared first on WhirledAway.

This post is a trip report. It’s the itinerary we made for the eighteen days we spent in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, plus a bit of other info about getting there in the first place, our route, traveling around, and lessons learned along the way.

Before you go
Getting around
Sleeping
Eating
On the road – our itinerary

Before you go

Visas and money

You can get a Saudi visa online in advance, or on arrival. You might want to bring some USD or SAR (the currency used in Saudi Arabia) as well, but it’s easy to get local currency from ATMs.

What to wear

Women in particular, should obviously dress modestly. Abayas and hijabs are not required but you’d want to keep shoulders and legs covered. I’d keep a scarf handy too, for mosques and just-in-case.

Medinah Salah – Hegra

Everybody’s heard of Petra (and if not, you can read all about it on this blog). But 500 km to the south, in this country long closed to outsiders, lie the remains of the Nabateans’ much less famous second-city: Hegra.

Due to Saudi Arabia’s new plans to draw in huge crowds of tourists (and then corral them on tours and behind fences) there’s no more showing up and exploring Hegra just like that. Visitors to the site need to be on a mandatory guided tour complete with a bus and planned stops. You can book your entrance slots on arrival in Al Ula at the Visitors’ Centre, or online in advance. Don’t screw up: if you don’t have a lot of time or flexibility, you should prebook your spots. We didn’t know this in advance and sure enough, tour slots were booked right out for the next two days, but we had time to wait.

A lot of these tourist sites and visitor centres and development were just kicking off literally weeks before we went, so there were quite a few hitches. I’d assume things are working more smoothly now.

Cultural village experiences

It was in Khaybar that we first encountered Saudi Arabia’s ambitious plans to develop a high-end tourism sector, without actually offering much of anything to visitors besides a complex ticketing scheme. All cultural and historic sites are now closed off and pricey to enter, with mandatory guided tours that are just too convoluted for what they’re showing you.

Although they’ve got visitor centres at each site that are actually pretty good, providing lots of info and booking assistance for the guided tours – and they feed you a lot of dates – the tours don’t really reflect the cost. I’d pick one of the ‘Cultural Villages’ and leave it at that.

Getting around

However you opt to get around, keep in mind that Saudis are not early risers. Smaller places are like desolate ghost towns all morning, nothing opens early (or even at a reasonable hour, I’d venture to say). Shops and restaurants open, and then close for ages throughout day with prayer times, and then eventually open again until late at night. Plan your journeys – and your meals – accordingly.

Public transport

Everything we read in advance said the bus network was extremely limited and difficult to use. While it’s not the best, a few busses in the north patched together with a couple of hired cars and a flight to the south, worked perfectly fine for us. Oh yes, and a ferry and some hitch-hiking.

Without a car, you will probably need to combine some busses and hitching to get around.

Hiring a car and driving yourself

Road-tripping in Saudi Arabia: so many things to think about, starting with numerals, maybe. Also including (but not limited to), countless speed bumps, spilling za’atar all over yourself on said speedbumps, camels, guys in jeeps herding camels, Saudi drivers in general, and not driving into haram zones (areas ‘off-limits’ to non- Muslims).

Mostly everyone we crossed paths with in Saudi Arabia was super friendly to us, shouting hello or welcome to Saudi Arabia from across the street when we walked by. Until they got behind the wheel: when we were driving they honked like hell at us along with everyone else.

So best to hire a car here only if you’re an aggressive driver (ahem, Oyv) in the first place.

You’ll have some vast distances to drive, so although it’s easy to find petrol, you should keep the tank topped up.

Sleeping

We didn’t book any rooms ahead of time. Only in Al Ula was availability limited, and we had to try a few places. Rooms were pretty cheap, other than in Duba, where every hotel we checked (and we checked quite a few) was asking 90-100 USD for almost nothing.

The tricky part is finding them. A lot of hotels are apartment-style and they aren’t signed at all. Others are signed but not at all recognizable to us. We usually just tracked places down on Google Maps.

And these hotels, despite being ‘proper’ hotels (ie not hostels, not guesthouses) and aimed at the allegedly burgeoning high-end tourist sector, offered no amenities, and I mean no amenities. Not a towel, not a square of paper, not a sliver of soap. Ashtrays and boxes of kleenex, yes. In huge, cold, dingy, echoing family-style rooms, with varying levels of cleanliness and a vague (or strong) smell of cigarettes. Often we could tell other people were actually there only by the mountains of empty takeaway boxes and dishes outside every door up and down the hall – families tend to eat in, I guess to avoid women eating in public.

We weren’t sure about the whole men-and-women-sharing-hotel-rooms thing, so we brought our marriage certificate with us just in case. It turns out that for us it’s not a problem, although it definitely is a problem for locals. A ‘big problem’ as the receptionist at our hotel in Abha said, as he called the police on an obviously unmarried couple who couldn’t produce ID and a family book at the front desk.

Eating

Well, there’s Khabsa, the Saudi national dish served straight out of a massive platter so everyone can dive right in, and the delicious and ubiquitous Pakistani food found everywhere thanks to the huge influx of migrant workers. Otherwise, there is a lot of fast food and kebabs, and so on.

Also, dates. Mountains of them in every shop and snack stop.

Keep in mind that many (if not quite all) restaurants have separate ‘family’ areas where women or any group with women in it, will eat.

On the road – our itinerary

Here’s our itinerary for the  eighteen days we spent in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Day 1 – ferry from Egypt
Day 2 – Duba
Day 3 – Yanbu
Days 4 and 5 – Medina
Days 6 and 7 – Khaybar
Day 8 – Tayma
Days 9 to 11 – Al Ula
Day 12 – Wadi Dissah
Days 13 to 15 – Abha
Days 16 and 17 – Jeddah

Day 1 – ferry from Egypt

When planning how to get from Egypt to Saudi Arabia (whilst already in Egypt) we noticed a dearth of information about ferries on the Red Sea. So the plan we eventually settled on was: ‘travel another seven hours from Aswan to a random port city, ask around, and see how that goes’.

And that is how we got ourselves onto a ferry to Duba, Saudi Arabia – which city, although totally unknown to us, is apparently the ‘Pearl of the Red Sea’. Incidentally, it’s not the only one. There is another ‘Pearl of the Red Sea’ in Eritrea and we’ve been there too. But I digress.

You can get from Safaga (Egypt) to Duba (Saudi Arabia) by overnight ferry. It takes about eight hours for the actual crossing and quite a few more hours before that getting out of Egypt. You can read my post about this entire process, here.

It was fun, we had a good night’s sleep in a perfectly comfortable cabin, woke up early to prayers on the ship’s intercom, and sailed smoothly into Saudi Arabia the next day.

Day 2 – Duba

The ferry doesn’t really follow a strict schedule but you’re likely to arrive in Duba later than you think. In our case, it was mid-afternoon.

The port is actually almost forty kilometers from the actual city and you’ll need a ride in – transport seems to be non-existent. You’ll probably need to hitch. There did seem to be some kind of dubious hotel, a restaurant, and possibly a bank at the port complex but there’s no reason to linger there so we caught a ride with a local fellow passenger. He enthusiastically reminded us that Saudi Arabia is safe and we’d face no problems at all, as the only other vehicle in sight tailgated us relentlessly, passed on the inside, and roared ahead of us onto an entry ramp. Driving, is easily the main/only concern you’ll have here.

At the first roundabout into town in Duba you have a few hotels, plenty of ATMs, food, coffee, and groceries. We downloaded the Kaiian taxi app and used that to get around easily.

Day 3 – Yanbu

The Saptco (public transport) office is at same roundabout on the way into Duba. We found daily buses running directly to Tabuk, Jeddah, Riyadh, Yanbu, and Medina. In short, it’s easy to leave the Pearl of the Red Sea, and thank goodness for that. We bought tickets to Yanbu, which is a six hour trip.

Yanbu was just a stopover for us to break up the trip to Medina. We stayed the night in what was to be the first of many vast cigarette-pervaded apartment-style hotels, and organized onward bus tickets to Medina.

We were unclear on whether, as non-Muslims we could actually go to Medina. The staff at the bus station did ask us a few questions about being Muslim (or not), but sold us the tickets regardless.

Days 4 and 5 – Medina

The second-holiest place in Islam, Medina, is another three and a half hours by bus from Yanbu. When we got out at the station we tried to book an Uber and a Kaiian but both were completely useless in Medina. We got around the good old fashioned way: flagging taxis and haggling.

We stayed two nights at Al Mekhan. Again, upon checking in the staff asked if we were Muslim but it didn’t matter that we said no.

We walked to the Al Haram area to get a look at the Prophet’s mosque and nobody stopped us or questioned us at any time. Both of us dressed respectfully and I had an abaya and headscarf on as well. How close you can actually go to the mosque is unclear, I think it depends on who you happen to meet if you enter the precinct. Just behave yourself.

Later, we walked along a very long promenade filled with families and went to Quba mosque.

Quba mosque might (or might not) be the first mosque in world dating back to Mohammed’s lifetime, where he led the first Friday prayers. Either way, it’s impressive and the whole area is really nice to just walk and watch people.

Days 6 and 7 – Khaybar

We hired a car at Lumi at Medina airport and started driving for Khaybar. Going from the airport meant we could avoid the worst traffic on the first and second ring roads rather than driving straight out from the city center somewhere.

It’s three hours driving from Medina to Khaybar. We found a hotel – no English sign – across from the Calla Cafe. The cafe is only open at night but the coffee is good. We stayed two nights.

In Khaybar, you can check out the Khaybar Cultural Village – ancient mud cities and a citadel set in palmeries.

It’s interesting driving in the area – watch out for camels – but also a lot of volcanic rock and strange desolate landscape.

Day 8 – Tayma

Because we hadn’t learned our lesson yet regarding forced tours of historic mudbrick oasis cities, we drove about three hours from Khaybar to Tayma.

We went for the ‘cultural village’ experience here which covered the old Governor’s palace, a palmerie, and an ancient, camel-drawn well. We stayed the night in Tayma.

Days 9 to 11 – Al Ula

It’s around three hours easy driving from Tayma to Al Ula. On arrival, we found out that you need to make advance bookings for Medinah Salah, or Hegra: go straight to the Visitors’ Centre and book your tour slots, or better yet, book ahead online.

The star of the show, you absolutely don’t want to miss this ancient site.

Hegra was once a major stop on the caravan route for merchants trading in incense, myrrh, and spices. But all that changed with the arrival of the Romans and a shift in the trading routes. Abandoned, Hegra slid into obscurity and there it remained for nearly 2000 years.

The Nabateans didn’t put their story in writing (other than by inscribing curses on tombs). Much of what is known about them comes from second-hand sources – the Greeks, the Romans. But they undoubtedly left their mark in the desert with this necropolis of massive, elaborately carved sandstone tombs, scattered across the sands of time.

Also around Al Ula you have some rugged desert landscapes and well-known rock-formations. They are fenced-off now and restricted to tours which kind of removes for me anyway, much of the interest in exploring rock formations and landscapes.

Day 12 – Wadi Dissah

We went to Wadi Dissah and stayed one night, as a diversion while we were waiting for our spots on the Hegra tour. It took about three and a half hours driving, each way from/to Al Ula.

It’s a beautiful spot and I’d highly recommend walking in the canyon at sunrise, or for that matter sunset.

Driving from Wadi Dissah to Medina takes about seven hours.

Days 13 to 15 – Abha

We drove from Al Ula to Medina in about four hours, straight to the airport and dropped off our car.

Then we took a flight down south to Abha.

We stayed three nights in Abha, and hired another car, specifically to drive to Raijal al-Ma. That’s a nine hundred year old village near the southern border with Yemen and it’s a full day trip, about two hours driving each way.

Days 16 and 17 – Jeddah

Finished up in Abha, we flew to Jeddah on day 16, and stayed there two nights, flying home on the eighteenth day.

(Relatively) liberal Jeddah, on the edge of the Red Sea and somewhere in between in every sense of the word, is the gateway to Mecca for Muslims on pilgrimage since the seventh century.

You will definitely want to spend some time exploring the old city, Al Balad, and strolling the corniche on the edge of the Red Sea.

Read More

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our other off-beat adventures all over the Middle East and beyond.

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So when we started planning a trip to Algeria, we encountered a lot of confusion around visas and the question of whether or not we could even travel in the country independently.

But based on our research (what info we could find, anyway) and some trial and error we sorted out a plan. To save you some of the same difficulties we’re reporting our experience here.

This post is the itinerary we made for the eleven days we spent in Algeria. It doesn’t go into a lot of detail about all the things you can see and do, but hopefully can help clear up a few questions that everyone – ourselves included – seems to have surrounding visas, money, getting around, and guides.

Visas
Tour or DIY?
Weather
Cash or card? Exchanging money
Getting around
On the road – our itinerary

Visas

We are no strangers to visa-bureaucracy but we’ve put off going to Algeria more than once, because of the fuss surrounding the visa process. And it did turn out to be a bit of a trial, but the good news is it’s actually quite simple now compared to how it’s been in the past.

Various Embassies/consulates handle the application process differently. This is based on our experience, so requirements at yours may vary.

At first, it seemed deceptively simple. We called the consular officer at our local Embassy and he said to just book a couple of hotels that we could cancel later. Then he went AWOL. We started calling back repeatedly, and although he knew exactly who we were without asking (I gather we were the only applicants at the time), he gave us the distinct impression that our applications were sitting on his desk and he hadn’t looked at them.

In fact, we had to provide hotel bookings to account for every night we’d be in the country. This took some thought:

• Going south of Ain Salah and particularly into the Sahara requires a guided tour for various reasons (security, remoteness). If you’re planning on going south and so book yourself a tour, you should get the visa quite quickly – because it will be processed by your tour agency. In that case you can even qualify for a visa on arrival and get it at the airport.
• If you’re planning to go south of Ain Salah but don’t want to commit to a tour yet, don’t say that. If you provide an itinerary that involves the south but without a booked tour, you probably won’t get the visa because the tour in those areas is mandatory. Keep in mind you’ll have to set a tour up at some point, before or once you arrive in Algeria and try to go to those southern places. Not sure how that would work.
• If you’re planning to travel independently in the north of the country, the application process is a bit of a dog and pony show, but doable.

You apply in advance at the Algerian Embassy or consulate in your country of residence. Ours claims to issue the visa in ‘at least fifteen working days’. It took about a month and a half. In the end – after calling and showing up in person, we wrangled our passports back, visas in, just a couple days ahead of departure. This was the first time we ever booked flights with cancellation.

To summarize our visa application:

• The start and end dates on our visas and length of stay were fixed to the first and last dates we had a hotel booking for. Even though we applied for the 30-day visa, we got exactly the number of days our hotel bookings covered. If you have to provide bookings, make sure they are cancellable and cover the entire duration you plan to be there, from the earliest day you might arrive to the last date you might stay (inside the 30 day period, for example), if you want to give yourself some flexibility.
• Besides the hotel bookings we had to provide bank statements, letters of employment, and travel insurance including repatriation. Apparently they will sometimes ask for photocopies of every single page in your passport – in duplicate.
• The tour requirement does not include Ghardaia. Still, we didn’t mention Ghardaia in our hotel bookings for the visa, only northern/coastal cities. Once we had the visa we cancelled our hotel bookings and rearranged our plans to include Ghardaia.

Tour or DIY?

All this visa stuff brings me to my next topic: tours versus independent travel.

First of all, yes, independent travel is allowed in northern Algeria. In the south on the other hand, traveling on a guided tour is required.

We really wanted to go it alone as usual so we decided to spend most of our time in the north where there’s no tour requirement. Still, the majority of tourists we saw were on guided tour groups. There weren’t many, and they were mainly in Ghardaia. We saw two independent travelers.

Ghardaia is definitely a highlight, and we got fairly confused about whether or not it counts as far enough ‘south’ to require a tour. Some tour companies told us that a tour was mandatory not just for Ghardaia but for the north too. It’s not.

We flew to Ghardaia from Oran and as far as we could tell you can travel there by bus or share-taxi too. Once in Ghardaia, although the police stopped us at the airport immediately (more on that later) – it was completely fine. We could freely roam around the principal town in the oasis and in-between the other towns. You do need a guide inside the walls of the old towns in the M’zab valley – but these are easily arranged at the entrance to each one.

On a side note, we encountered literally no hassles or scamming-attempts here, no one bothered us. Quite the opposite, Algerians were super friendly and kind. We don’t speak Arabic or French, so that caused some difficulty but was absolutely not insurmountable. Just make sure you have a working SIM and Google Translate.

Weather

We went to Algeria in April when daytime temperatures ran from eighteen to high twenties Celsius. It rained a bit but was generally sunny, sometimes a little chilly in the north. Weather was not an issue for us in the slightest.

Cash or card? Exchanging money

Bring the entire cost of your trip in euros or dollars and change it as you go. Although you can withdraw money from ATMs in the cities or pay with card, you really shouldn’t. The official bank rates are terrible compared with the black market and the exchange you’ll pay when using your card is astronomical compared with paying cash (as long as you changed that cash on the black market).

On a side note, ATMs seemed pretty unreliable and often won’t accept foreign cards so I’d really only want to bother with one in a pinch.

We brought euros, which are the better option when it comes to exchange rates. At the time we were in Algeria, one euro equaled 149 dinars at the bank rate. On the black market rates vary (depending who’s offering) and the best rate we got was 252 dinars per euro – so you see what I’m talking about. Just shop around a little.

You can most likely change money at your hotel but we found much better rates at shops and convenience stores. In the streets and markets random guys will approach you and offer to exchange. Keep in mind: the black market is illegal.

Bring smaller notes to change on arrival. We arrived late and there were plenty of moneychangers wandering around the airport with terrible rates, and all the ATMs were out of service or wouldn’t accept our cards anyway.

Paying for hotels: if you’re booking hotel rooms ahead of time, remember when you convert the price of the room from dinar to your own currency, you’re getting official rates. Accommodation once you get there, and pay in the dinars you changed on the black market, is actually pretty cheap. So go ahead and book in advance if you want but make sure the payment option will be cash (dinar) on arrival, with nothing charged to your card.

We generally paid around thirty euros upwards for decent hotel rooms, usually including breakfast. Food, transportation, and tourist sites are very cheap – often just a couple of euros. We spent less than thirty euros a day for two people not counting hotels and flights.

Getting around

Travel by air

Algeria is huge, domestic flights are cheap. Check out Air Algerie. We were on a short trip so we flew a few times. Flying is actually a good option (I can’t believe I’m saying that, but there you have it).

If you’re taking a domestic flight, be prepared for significant delays and a small amount of pointless chaos. Watch the boarding gates like a hawk. Gates seem to change frequently without any updates on the screens, and usually briefly announced in French or Arabic only. On one occasion a helpful employee actually came and got us as we sat at our posted gate, blissfully unaware that our flight had completely boarded from another gate at the opposite end of the concourse.

You’ll have to fill out ‘fiches’ – Departure and Arrival cards – and hand them in at every airport and get your passport checked, even flying domestic. Bring a pen. And patience.

Travel by road

For local transport around a city, get yourself an app like InDrive, Yassir, or Heetch. We used InDrive almost exclusively and it worked well.

In the north of the country it’s no problem to zip along between towns by share-taxi, bus, or train. Not so much ‘zipping’ on the train, actually, they are notoriously slow. Just saying, it’s allowed. Of course in the southern/desert areas, transport won’t be an issue for you anymore since you’ll be on a tour.

We found share-taxis were the easiest and fastest option to move between cities. They’re also cheap and you don’t have to plan ahead – just show up, wait for the car to fill, and off you go. The roads are in good shape – be aware that drivers will speed. You probably won’t get a seatbelt. They generally take seven people including the driver. We also used a few private taxis (that we just negotiated in the street) to daytrip here and there.

Regarding land borders as far as we know, Tunisia is open, Morocco is closed. Mali, Niger, Libya – these are not only closed but also dangerous, and you shouldn’t be anywhere near them. Possibly the same goes for Mauritania.

Speaking of Mauritania, riding the rails on the famous iron ore train is apparently off-limits at the moment. But you can still check out this post about our experience on the iron ore train.

On the road – our itinerary

Here’s the itinerary we made for the eleven days we spent in Algeria.

Day 1 Algiers
Day 2 – 4 Oran
Day 5 – 8 Ghardaia
Day 8 – 10 Constantine
Day 11 Algiers

Algiers

We landed in Algiers around midnight and processed immigration quickly. The airport is about thirty minutes from the city centre. With and Airalo e-SIM and InDrive ready to go we got a ride to town.

There’s a good local transport system with buses, metro, and streetcars. It’s a big city but if you stay centrally most sights are fairly walkable. Don’t forget to look up: Algiers has a lot of grand architecture.

The museums aren’t much to write home about for English speakers since everything’s in Arabic and French only.

But don’t visit Algeria without a wander in the narrow alleys amongst the souks, hammams, and mosques of the the capital’s Casbah, or ancient medina.

We had the only drink of the trip (local wine no less) at Hotel El Djazair. We really liked the hotel’s historical vibe and would have stayed there if we’d known about it in advance.

Two full days in Algiers is a good amount of time to see it and to eat a bunch some of their delicious sweets. Get yourself a big old plate of couscous (if you don’t…don’t worry about it. It’s everywhere). Algiers is also where we first encountered chakhchoukha, a sort of chopped-up-pasta dish. Carb-overload, and pretty tasty.

Straightaway, on our very first day – we started noticing the friendliness and welcoming hospitality of Algerians. That didn’t change the whole time we were there, and was one of the best parts.

Oran

Even though many of Oran’s buildings are in a state of decay it’s nice just to walk around the city and image life here a century ago. The architectural influence from both the Spanish and French is very obvious on a stroll through the center and it’s an atmospheric place, often called ‘Little Paris’.

Little Paris, big Algeria: we flew from Algiers to Oran. That being said, the roads are so good and share-taxis so frequent and easy (and flights so frequently delayed) I’d just go by road next time.

Although it’s the second biggest city in the country, it’s considerably smaller than Algiers and makes for some easy chill days. Two days exploring on foot worked just fine for us.

To reach the Fort of Santa Cruz you ride a cable car from Magenta cable car station in the city center. At the top you can find a taxi to take you down to the fort or walk about forty minutes. Then you ride the cable car back down to the city. Apparently walking all the way to/from the city is not a good idea, we were warned off doing this by our hotel.

We stayed at Hotel Les Ambassadeurs which we liked. It was the only hotel we paid for with card in advance, so that means we paid at the bank rate – i.e. a lot more than the cost paying cash on the spot. It was the only hotel we encountered which required payment in advance.

Overall we didn’t love the food in Oran or anywhere else in Algeria, but again we did get a lot of good breads and fruit and dates in the markets, and sweets and coffee in cafes.

Ghardaia

Ghardaia – five towns clustered together in the desert, the gateway to the Sahara. These quiet fortified towns are home to the Mozabite people who broke from mainstream Islam and founded the pentapolis about a thousand years ago. Silence reigns inside the walls where the only traffic is donkeys (…or the occasional motorbike), and ghostly women flit by covered in white wraps from head to toe, only one eye exposed.

We flew from Oran to Ghardaia. Next time I’d go by road, not a lot more time-consuming and for the reason below.

Arriving by flight, you should arrange a pickup in advance because the police meet foreigners right off the plane and want to know your plans. We’d arranged a ride through our Airbnb host and had the driver’s number. The instant we walked off the tarmac and into the little airport, a police officer stopped us. He asked where we were staying and who was coming to get us. He had us call the driver so they could talk to him. We waited about twenty minutes until they gave us back our passports. Then we drove with a police escort to town. There seems to be no reason for this beyond formalities, but everyone was friendly. From what we’ve read there are none of these formalities if you arrive by public transport, and after the police escort from the airport, we never saw them again – including for the trip back to the airport, later.

Security in this particular area hasn’t been an issue in a long time but still some procedures seem to linger.

The taxi cost 2000 dinar and took half an hour to Ghardaia. Ghardaia is the biggest of the five main Mozabite towns and the most convenient place to stay in the area.

Beni Isguen, Bou Noura, and Melika are within walking distance from Ghardaia. You can get to El Atteuf in forty-five minutes on bus number 30 from Ghardaia. You can also hire a taxi to drive you around to the towns but honestly I’d say that’s pointless, they’re very easy to just go yourself.

The inhabitants of the ancient fortified towns are concerned about protecting their heritage and will only allow visitors in with guides (that includes Algerians from the rest of the country, too). The smallest of the towns, Melika, is the only one where nobody imposed this rule when we were there. Quite the opposite in fact: we asked for a guide and couldn’t find one. The other four towns where we had guides were much more interesting to us than Melika, where we wandered around empty streets alone.

The towns allow visitors entry from about 09:00 until 13:00, and then again from 16:00 til 18:00. You can’t miss the Tourist Offices, they are just past the main entry gates inside the walls. That’s where you pick up your guide. Prices are posted and ranged from 250-500 dinars per person, depending on group size – there were usually tour groups around. In most cases somebody called and tracked down an English-speaking guide for us. All the guides we met were really informative and the tours were good.

In general:

• In Beni Isguen there’s an auction every night so if you want to catch that, go around 17.00.
• You get great views from the top of the ancient towers in Beni Isguen. Unless there’s a sandstorm.
• Ghardaia itself is most interesting in the morning when the market is full-swing.
• Photographing the women dressed in the traditional white wraps, called Ahuli, is strictly not allowed.

You’re not spoiled for choice foodwise, but on the way to Beni Isguen there’s a restaurant called El Djawhara which we liked and so clung to for dear life. A few hundred meters away from that one is another ok restaurant with a traditional Berber interior called Restaurant Khaima Hamma.

Overall, we ate a lot of dates. Dates were the staple crop and valuable here for a long time, and still are grown and consumed by the ton.

Constantine

Constantine’s big draw is its stunning location. The ‘City of Bridges’ is perched on the edge of a deep gorge, with seven iconic bridges spanning the Rhumel river far below.

Besides that, Algeria is home to the second-largest number of Roman ruins after Italy. Staying in Constantine puts you in daytripping proximity to two of these evocative Roman cities: Timgad and Djemila. Founded in 100 AD, abandoned by the 7th century, these ruins are some of the best preserved Roman cities in North Africa.

Today, this means sunny days rambling around Roman baths, villas, mosaic-tiled houses, forums, and temples.

We made a separate daytrip to each one. We asked around in the street and negotiated with a couple of taxi drivers, then hired one and paid 7000 dinar the first day to Timgad and 8000 dinar on the second day to Djemila. On the second day we also had the driver take us around to all the bridges when we got back to Constantine. Both daytrips were about seven hours with driving time, a couple of hours at the ruins, and stops for lunch.

You can also do these daytrips by patching together share-taxis, buses, or a couple of private taxis. It’ll just take a lot longer.

Both ruined cities were incredibly intact. Our favourite was probably Djemila, the spacious setting is really beautiful.

We left Constantine in a share-taxi from Sahraoui/Gare routiere est, to Algiers.

If you want to go by train, you’ll need to go to the station in person to check departures and buy tickets. In addition to leaving and arriving at inconvenient times, the train takes much longer than the share-taxi.

…and back to Algiers

We came back to Algiers by share-taxi from Constantine. That took about four hours, plus a short time waiting for the car to fill. The driver made a lunch stop along the way at a highway rest station – this was seriously the best food we ate the whole time.

We arrived at the Kharouba Interstate Taxi stand and got a ride on InDrive the rest of the way into the city from there.

Read More

Check out the Destinations page for travel guides and stories about our other off-beat adventures all over Africa and beyond. Or, if you’re heading to neighboring Tunisia, check out this post.

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